Version: 2.0
June 2015
Introduction ................................................................................................................................................ 4
Need support? (Read Me, please) ............................................................................................................................................... 4
My Public Key: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 5
How to gain maximum knowledge and money from Methods described in this guide ...................................................... 5
Equipment Setup and Safety ..................................................................................................................... 6
First: install and use everything (Linux OS included) on our usb drive .............................................................................. 7
Second: set a VPN connection ................................................................................................................................................ 9
Third: let’s build our Virtual Machines .................................................................................................................................... 9
Last step: creating an hidden encrypted volume ................................................................................................................ 10
Additional ideas about staying safe...................................................................................................................................... 12
Is it safe to play with a poker account with my real identity? ............................................................................................. 12
Real Life Cover: the PPP (Professional Poker Player) ........................................................................................................ 12
Carding ...................................................................................................................................................... 14
Key Information: NON-AVS Cards......................................................................................................................................... 15
Additional Information: required to use Fullz ...................................................................................................................... 15
Additional Safety Measures ................................................................................................................................................... 16
Why you should never use copy and paste when carding ................................................................................................. 16
Important Note: Check every card’s BIN .............................................................................................................................. 16
Some Tips to get the best cards: .......................................................................................................................................... 17
Why you should check the balance of that card .................................................................................................................. 17
How to check a card: without calling and without burning risk ......................................................................................... 17
Authorizing and Capture: understanding the difference .................................................................................................... 18
Choosing the amount to card and Why ................................................................................................................................ 18
Chargeback times ................................................................................................................................................................... 19
VIP72: should you use it or not? ........................................................................................................................................... 19
Learn from your mistakes ...................................................................................................................................................... 20
Another thing that can lead you to failure: hardware scans ............................................................................................... 20
FraudFox: improve your success rate and optimize time management ............................................................................ 20
Step by Step in detail ............................................................................................................................................................. 21
How to make more than 1K$ with a single card (ATO) ........................................................................................................ 22
Poker Accounts (how to withdraw money): ............................................................................................ 24
Your Real Account.................................................................................................................................................................. 24
Verified Accounts with other Real Identities ........................................................................................................................ 24
Middlemen Accounts.............................................................................................................................................................. 24
How to verify a new account: ..................................................................................................................................................... 25
Getting real document scans for free: .................................................................................................................................. 25
Cashout Time! ......................................................................................................................................................................... 26
Alternatives from standard chip dumping .............................................................................................. 27
Money transfers .......................................................................................................................................................................... 27
Carding and dumping on bank accounts.................................................................................................................................. 27
Getting Bitcoins with lots of Online Poker Rooms who don’t support bitcoins ................................................................... 28
Online Poker Software Needed ................................................................................................................ 30
Professional Chip Dumping (on your own) ............................................................................................ 31
The Basics: why they freeze or ban your account for fraud ................................................................................................... 31
How the poker room can check every single player? ......................................................................................................... 31
Other Myths about online poker (and fraud): ....................................................................................................................... 32
Methods and Moves: 6-max Tables ........................................................................................................................................... 32
2
First Method: Getting to Showdown with Weaker Hand ..................................................................................................... 32
Second Method: Legit Bluffs (postflop) ................................................................................................................................ 33
Third Method: Legit Bluffs using legit 3-bets (pre-flop) ...................................................................................................... 34
Fourth Method: Legit Bluffs using legit 4-bets and flat 3bets (pre-flop)............................................................................ 34
Fifth Method: Simulating Legit Blind vs Blind aka Blind Wars (pre-flop) .......................................................................... 35
SB Perspective........................................................................................................................................................................ 35
BB Perspective ....................................................................................................................................................................... 36
Sixth Method: “Extreme” Value Bets .................................................................................................................................... 36
Seventh Method: Legit bluff raising against Flop or Turn c-bets (postflop) ..................................................................... 37
Player images and their Pros and Cons ............................................................................................................................... 37
Further Considerations .......................................................................................................................................................... 38
Multi-Tabling in Poker Fraud ................................................................................................................................................. 38
Bankroll ................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
Cashouts: when to withdraw your money ............................................................................................................................ 39
Methods and Moves: Heads Up Tables ..................................................................................................................................... 40
3bet Range in Heads Up games ............................................................................................................................................ 42
Poker Fraud in Team ................................................................................................................................ 43
Team Roles .................................................................................................................................................................................. 43
Team Moves - Carders ................................................................................................................................................................ 43
Team Moves – Receivers............................................................................................................................................................ 43
Best Dropping Strategy.......................................................................................................................................................... 44
Collusion: multi-account tactics and social scams ................................................................................................................. 44
The “Girah” Scam ................................................................................................................................................................... 45
The Simple Rape Scam .......................................................................................................................................................... 45
The Forum Staking Scam ....................................................................................................................................................... 46
Tourney Assault...................................................................................................................................................................... 46
Search and Destroy ................................................................................................................................................................ 47
Useful and Vulnerable Websites.............................................................................................................. 47
Where I can find poker agents? ................................................................................................................................................. 48
Suggested Websites (EU and also Worldwide): ....................................................................................................................... 48
Considerations on this links:................................................................................................................................................. 49
How to improve your game ...................................................................................................................... 50
Basic poker glossary explanation: ............................................................................................................................................ 50
The Basics ................................................................................................................................................................................... 51
How I can improve my game? ............................................................................................................................................... 52
Pre-Flop Ranges: opening, calling, 3betting ............................................................................................................................ 53
Pre-Flop Ranges: Isolation and Complete SB ......................................................................................................................... 54
Pre-Flop Ranges: how to create your range ............................................................................................................................. 54
Default 3-Bet Range and when to use it ............................................................................................................................... 56
Postflop Tips ............................................................................................................................................................................... 56
C-Bet Basics (6-Max Game) ................................................................................................................................................... 56
When to quit a specific table ................................................................................................................................................. 57
How you can setup your HUD in Hold’Em Manager................................................................................................................. 57
How to immediately recover the cost of this guide: let’s make 200$ together! ..................................................................... 58
Final Notes and Special Thanks ................................................................................................................................................ 59
3
Introduction
Welcome!
This guide is based on NL texas holdem cash game. The following methods are not tested on tournaments or Sit&Go.
This is my best knowledge about poker fraud. I live with it. Playing poker was my main job. I can also tell you that if
you are lazy this is not for you. This is not easy money.
However, if you are looking for a good source of income that can last for all your life, and you are searching a method
that is literally IMPOSSIBLE to get burned/saturated… you have found it.
If you have bought this guide (or stolen, lol) you have made your first right move. I can assure you that if you follow
every step described here you will see your first profit very soon. With the right effort, a week from now, you should be
in good profit with a new income in your everyday balance.
In this business, to get your money, you must be legit and fraud at the same time. You will understand this very soon.
Need support? (Read Me, please)
Don’t be afraid to contact me if you need assistance. I will try to give you the best support I can, just to make sure you
are making profit with this and not loosing time or money.
I’ve put a lot of work in this guide, lots of hours (and days), to write all my best knowledge and tips. Literally everything
I know about Poker Fraud and Carding.
For this reason of course I’m providing support only to people who really bought this guide from me. In order to
receive full support from me It’s enough to just give me your account name on AlphaBay Market. I keep an updated
database with all my customers.
I helped a lot of my customers. Most of them were totally new to carding, and I followed each one, step by step until
their first success. If you need tutoring about this and/or other stuff send me a PM on Alphabay and we can talk about
it. At the moment of writing if you bought the guide-only version from my shop you can request tutoring to me and I will
create a custom listing for you. My tutoring price it’s 150$ without any particular limit. I will follow you via jabber/icq as
long as is necessary.
If you bought the option of this guide that includes tutoring you don’t need to add more money to receive it. Just send
me a pm and we’ll agree a time to meet online.
The future updates of this guide will be written based on your questions, ideas, and suggestions.
Even if you don’t like working with other people I’m sure you will find your way to make money by reading this guide.
I’ve tried to write literally everything I know. I’ve invested a crazy amount of time to get this guide done and still, I’m
sure I will update this guide with even more methods cause both in Poker and Fraud there is always something new to
learn every day.
Just remember that if you got any questions you can send me a PM on Alphabay whenever you want: doesn’t matter
how much you paid this (as long as you received this from me…). I will reply to you asap!
4
My Public Key:
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k8rvJFUgChOevMh6TSVERcaWhhNz2FckJ3Tb7Qa7OMfVZKNTz2aHq99w9SN6GM+d
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How to gain maximum knowledge and money from Methods described in this guide
Be sure to follow this lines to make sure you have not wasted your money:
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
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Read and understand everything stated in this guide.
Contact me for support if you need my Help. I’m in DW almost every day and I usually check my PM every
day.
Some pages written in this guide are made to be printed. For example you will see pages literally full of hand
ranges. It’s not easy to just remember this things by memory, especially if your are new to this. Just print
them! You will learn hand ranges more quickly without too much effort.
You will read lots of methods, social scams, carding and similar. Be sure to choose one method if this is your
first time and start practice that particular one. It’s useless to try a little bit of everything and you only risk to
loose time and money.
Don’t invest too much money in this if it’s your first time with poker. You will find one section in this guide who
tells you that the best thing is to invest 1K$. It’s the best thing if you are already skilled a little bit. Your starting
money can be 100$ (or even less if you already have CC’s and everything set).
Before actually spend more money after you have read this guide be sure to have a specific plan.
o Which site have you choose to be your first?
o In how many days you have planned to recover your investment?
o What method you will use?
o Think to other questions to create the best plan you can.
5
Equipment Setup and Safety
Choosing the right mix between safety and pure paranoia it’s not the easiest thing to do. If you are too paranoid about
your security setup your work will be slower, and on the other side, if you are not-aware of the risks and take a too
much comfortable way of acting you will risk your freedom every day.
Here it is in my opinion one of the best setups you can use. Consider that the best option for you can be different,
since the methods of work by Law Enforcement can change in every country.
If you want to use my setup, our final goal here is the following:
Our equipment:
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Laptop: low-medium range of notebooks can be enough to work. I recommend at least a quadcore with 4 gb
of RAM. Also the display it’s pretty important, remember that you can have 2 or even more (depends by you)
VMs opened at the same time. The best it’s to have at least 17” display or more.
USB drive – 32gb or more (not essential but recommended): one single usb drive of 32 gb it’s enough for
our setup. I keep everything in a 32 gb key, main OS and VMs included. The HDD of your laptop will not be
touched if you follow my tutorial (next page).
Virtual machine where you will play using the carded account: I prefer to use a Windows VM for obvious
reasons, you will understand why in the carding section. Windows XP or better. Don’t use windows 8.1 if you
have an old laptop, or it will be impossible to work. The virtual machine it’s an actual PC inside your system
and it can require ton of resources.
Virtual machine or pc where you have your account able to cashout: a second VM with Windows installed is
absolutely necessary only if you are playing on your own. Cause you will cover 2 team position at the same
time: carder and receiver (the one who withdraw the actual money).
Whonix Gateway: Whonix gateway it’s one of the two Whonix VMs. Consider it like a virtual router which will
be linked to your two (or more) VM with Windows.
The Windows VMs will access the internet only via Whonix Gateway. Why? Because Whonix G makes sure
you are constantly using TOR and prevents any kind of leak from your Windows VMs.
SOCKS5 or RDP: after you have all your VMs opened there is still one issue: you can’t access and card
websites from TOR, or you will fail 100% of times. SOCKS5 makes sure that you have one stable exit IP.
Same goes if you choose RDP.
Usually when I do this by myself I got three virtual machines opened in Virtual Box. Two of them are Windows VMs
and the third one is Whonix Gateway. Still, there are some co-workers here that prefer using 4 or more Virtual
Machines to make more money. We will focus on two VMs plus Whonix G. Once you mastered this three you will
know how to do it if you want to expand your setup even more.
Whonix Gateway is 100% free and open source and has great community support in case you need help. Be sure to
get Whonix from their official website!
Before going on in building our setup here are the main differences between SOCKS5 and RDP/VPS.
6
Stands for:
What it does:
Price (on average)
SOCKS5
SOCKet Secure 5
RDP
Remote Desktop Protocol
VPS
Virtual Private Server
It's an internet protocol. Usually
It's a virtual machine that acts
comes with a proxy client easy to Created by Microsoft, it's a software pre- like a server. It's used mainly to
use. In this client you can choose installed in every Windows which gives you manage websites, anyway it
IPs from different countries and
a graphical interface to manage another
can be really useful to us.
cities. Once connected with your
PC connected via internet.
Very similar to a RDP. With one
selected IP, you will look like you It's just like using your own windows, while
big difference: your are not
are browsing from that country.
actually you are using another PC. Just
connected in another physical
Unless the enemy got direct
like VPS and SOCKS5 you can find RDPs
PC. You are connected to
access to your PC they can't tell
from all over the world.
another VM not hosted in your
if you are using SOCKS5 or not.
system.
30$ for 30 days
VIP72 (low quality)
100$ or more for 30 days
BCPRX (high quality)
Usually around 8$. VPS can be
Usually 10$ or less for 1 single RDP.
expensive too but we don't need
Which of course it's from 1 specific city in
a powerful VPS. A basic one it's
1 specific country.
more than enough.
Very stable, and easy to use
Pros
Easy to use: just a few clicks
and you will be ready to go.
If stable, you can use the same IP multiple Finding trustable providers it's
times without being worried to be
super-easy: it takes just a quick
blacklisted. This lowers the fraud score of
google search.
VPS security it's taken very
course and gives you the oppurtunity to
have success even in websites like PayPal seriously so your provider w ill help
you to make sure that no one access
or coinbase.
your VPS w ithout your permission.
Cons
Stressful to use if low
quality: you will be randomly
disconnected and sometimes
forced to try more than one IP
to get a good one.
Can be expensive if you
want a higher quality service.
Stressful if you haven't a fast
Stressful if you haven't a fast
connection: same problem of
connection: you will see your mouse ultra
RDP.
slow and every action will be delayed.
For every carding/fraud
Hard to find reliable providers: often
operation
you find hacked RDPs and they suck in
you will need a new VPS
our case. Cause the victim can actually
everytime. This i'ts true even
see everything you do with their pc.
for RDP.
First: install and use everything (Linux OS included) on our usb drive
For this tutorial I assume you already have a linux .iso file and a laptop with windows already installed. It’s super easy
to get a Linux distro and they are all free. I suggest you something based on Debian, and lightweight. One example
can be Lubuntu. You can find tons of choice out there based on your personal taste.
The first thing we have to do it’s to make sure that our portable drive it’s able to run a live version of your Linux distro.
Go up to Pendrivelinux.com and download Universal USB Installer (aka UUI). It’s a software super-easy to use.
Open up UUI, and follow the instructions. Insert you 32gb USB in your pc, select the options based on your linux distro
and once you are ready click “Create”. Be sure to add persistence, doesn’t matter the size, just be sure it’s created by
UUI.
Once complete safely remove your usb and reboot your pc. It’s important of course that your pc boot from the new usb
you just created. Access your BIOS and make sure everything it’s in the correct boot order, with flash/usb drive on top.
Now turn off the pc, insert your usb, and turn it on. If everything it’s good linux will boot. Always choose “Try without
installing” or similar, which pretty much always it’s the default option.
Try a little bit your distro then turn off your pc again. It’s time to deal with persistence. See, having a live linux it’s
great cause It’s immediate, you don’t need to install anything in your laptop, everything it’s on a single usb. Plus, your
original OS will not be touched. One problem: when you turn off your live linux everything done will be deleted and not
saved. That’s why someone added a persistence option. It will save your data, but with one huge limit: max 4gb. We
can fix that. Here’s how.
The best way to do this is having an additional usb drive, even of 8gb or less. We only need it once, then never again
until you decide to format your 32gb usb.
Download ubuntu, follow the same tutorial to create a Live Ubuntu on the 8gb usb, delete “casper-rw” from your
32gb drive, and follow this tutorial. Like everything until now, if you have basic PC experience, it will be pretty easy
to follow.
Finally once you have completed this tutorial it’s time for the final test. Boot from your 32gb usb, always select the
default option (“Try without installing”), and try to customize your Linux (display resolution, language, UI, etc).
7
Don’t do more than that, then reboot again, and if everything went good you should be able to find your changes again
(remember to choose always the default option: “Try without installing”). This it’s the proof that now you have
persistence, and not only for 4gb but for all the 32GB of space on your USB pendrive.
After this you will need to launch immediately these commands from a terminal. You can open a terminal by
pressing Ctrl + Alt + T.
Sudo apt-get update
Sudo apt-get upgrade
Sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
These are probably some of the most important commands. Apt-get manages all your default software on your linux
distro. If linux it’s new to you, you will soon realize how easy it is to keep every single program updated, without even
visit one single website. Update it’s for checking out the updates from the official repositories of your Linux, upgrade
is for actually upgrading the software (you will be asked yes or no before the upgrade), and lastly dist-upgrade is for
upgrading your whole OS (example: From Debian 6 to Debian 7).
This will take a while the first time, then it will be faster. Remember to check your OS updates at least every week. It’s
important to have everything up to date cause outdated software it’s more vulnerable and less safe.
When you have done this your linux live with persistence will be ready to use in almost every pc you want. Turn on
your pc without your Linux-usb inserted and it will just start as always, with your totally innocent Windows. Turn it on
with the usb plugged in and Windows will not start at all, cause Linux will.
Also your default HDD drive will not be even mounted on Linux. You have to manually mount that volume. This is a
further proof to know that this usb stick will not touch your PC’s original OS at all unless you really want to.
Now it’s time to get virtual box. In this software we will create and run our Virtual Machines. You can install virtual box
with one single command from terminal: sudo apt-get install virtualbox
Help! My virtual box it’s unstable!
If you have any kind of problem with Virtual Box’s version from the official repositories you may need to install it in a
different way. Simply go up to the official website of virtual box and download the latest version for your Linux distro.
Avoid beta versions and be sure to install only stable versions. You will find specific instructions on how to manually
install virtual box right in the download page.
Next step it’s to choose between truecrypt or veracrypt. Download one of them and install it. It’s necessary to make
sure everything about fraud in your drive will be encrypted. Currently, June 2015, it’s impossible to brute-force or
decrypt an encrypted volume of these two software IF the password it’s complicated enough (more than 15
alphanumeric & symbol characters).
For Veracrypt, just go to the official website. Truecrypt has a different story. I still don’t know why but the original
team abandoned the project and said to everyone to don’t use their software anymore for safety reasons. Also, they
suggested to use BitLocker, a full disk encryption feature in various versions of Windows (lol).
Of course the internet didn’t stay to watch the best encrypt software disappear. By auditing the software, it’s been
discovered that Truecrypt it’s still 100% safe to use. Here you can read the whole story of truecrypt and get the latest
versions of the software plus every single update about Truecrypt future.
When you have your On-the-fly encryption software installed we are ready for the next step: building our Virtual
Machines.
8
Second: set a VPN connection
Before going to the next step we should set a VPN first. Why VPN is necessary?



To add additional encryption in our connection
To prevent our ISP to see that we are using TOR any given day
Additional security, given by the fact that hundreds, or even thousands of users are using your same VPN
location/access.
This is a particular process that can change based by your VPN provider. So I will not write a detailed tutorial here. If
you want an easy VPN to setup you should choose one of the following:
Mullvad, Nordvpn, Private Internet Access (PIA), ShadeYou, SecureVPN and PRQ. I think that these services are
really the best.
Another alternative could be to buy a VPN service straight from a Darknet Market like AlphaBay. Anyway if you
choose this path you should be really careful and 100% sure that they are not affiliated with LE. Also never use free
VPN. The services I suggested are all accepting bitcoins.
Once you have setup your VPN it’s time to test it.
Use these two websites: DNS Leak Test and DNS Leak. You should see absolutely no leaks in both of them. If you
see any leak, if you can’t connect to your VPN after you paid them, or for any other problem regarding your VPN
service you should contact their support, not me. Not cause I’m lazy or that I don’t want to help you, I’m here for
every doubt you have. But that can be a specific problem about your specific VPN provider and their support will be
much more fast them me and often the only ones that can fix specific problems. In my experience I tried various paid
VPNs, and their support often include a Live chat that fix your problems at the speed of light.
After your new VPN connection is set and you passed both of the two tests it’s time to move on!
Third: let’s build our Virtual Machines
Creating VMs it’s extremely easy and very intuitive in Virtual Box. Create a Windows Volume, based on the .iso you
have downloaded before. Virtual Box will guide you in the process step by step and suggest you the best settings.
After that you need to insert your windows.iso in your now empty windows machine (to do this just go to your VM
Settings > Storage and click the CD icon).
Then save your settings and just start your new virtual machine: a normal windows installation will follow. Once
windows it’s installed your VM with Windows it’s ready. I suggest you to immediately clone this machine, because it’s
still 100% clean. You can clone your VM unlimited times.
Now let’s close and forget windows for a second and download Whonix. Go up to the official website of Whonix and
download Whonix Gateway.
To import and use Whonix Gateway at its best I strongly suggest you to read this page carefully. Read everything and
be sure to understand what you are doing, download only Whonix Gateway, since we don’t really need workstation,
and be sure to follow the instruction on that page to verify the file you have just downloaded. In my opinion it’s not “an
optional” thing, it’s necessary to be 100% sure that what you are using it’s the real Whonix Gateway.
It will take from you roughly an hour to have your Whonix Gateway ready-to-go. After that go to this new VM settings
in virtual box and be sure to set 128MB of RAM. In this way Whonix will start in terminal mode, without UI, this speeds
up things tremendously, not only it will start faster it will also be more immediate and easy to use.
Start Whonix Gateway again. Immediately change the default password for root and user! With these commands:
Sudo SU > login as root, remember the default password it’s changeme
Then type Passwd to set a password of your choice for root. After that type Passwd user to set user password.
These are the commands you will usually use on Whonix Gateway:
Apt-Get install, update, upgrade, dist-upgrade, etc: these will work in Whonix G, just like they work in your linux
you have already installed, cause Whonix it’s also based on linux debian.
Whonixcheck: an essential Whonix command to check any kind of update about it. It runs automatically every 24
hours, and it can be used everytime you want.
9
Sudo service tor restart: I use this command to change my tor identity. Can be useful tons of times, especially when
you are on nodes that are too blacklisted or slow enough to be annoying.
Timesync: launch Network Time Synchronization, necessary to prevent time zone leaks, which in a shitty scenario
can be used against you to decrease your anonymity. Every damn time you start Whonix G, before using internet in
your windows machine you should wait for this message: “... last attempt of Network Time Synchronization was
successful”
It’s for your own good. If Whonix G it’s taking too long to successfully complete Timesync you can force it by typing
timesync in the command line.
Sudo reboot: pretty obvious, it reboots the system.
Sudo poweroff: one of the commands that can be used to turn off your Whonix G when your hard working day it’s
finished.
If you followed my lead now you should have your Virtual Machines almost ready. It’s time to link Whonix Gateway to
your Windows VM: this will make possible to use only TOR to access internet and at the same time to prevent any
kind of leaks. Be sure TO NOT install Virtual Box guest additions, cause it would make your Virtual Machine more
vulnerable.
The following tutorial it’s a summary of this one from the official documentation of Whonix.
Step 1: go up to your Windows VM settings in Virtual Box. And set this options:
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Settings -> System -> Motherboard -> Hardware Clock in UTC
System -> Motherboard -> Pointing Device -> PS/2 Mouse (required so that USB controller may be
disabled)
System -> Processor -> Enable PAE/NX if available
Network -> Adapter 1 -> attached to Internal Network (Important!) and Name (of Internal Network)
(Important!): Whonix (Note: It's Whonix, not whonix. Case sensitive. Capital W.)
USB -> uncheck Enable USB controller
Save settings and move to the next step.
Step 2: Start your windows VM. Go up to your connection settings, in Windows 7 (similar in Windows XP): In Control
Panel -> Network and Sharing Center: click on "Change adapter settings" Right-click on local area connection >
properties ->In property window the ones under TCP/IP Internet Protocol Version 4, set these values:
IP address 10.152.152.50
Subnet netmask 255.255.192.0
Default gateway 10.152.152.10
Preferred DNS server 10.152.152.10
Will you use more than one windows VM? If yes you will need to link that VM to Whonix G too. To do this just follow
Step 1 again, then when it’s time of step two increment last octet of IP address, like this:
IP address of Windows VM #1 > 10.152.152.50
IP address of Windows VM #2 > 10.152.152.51
Last step: creating an hidden encrypted volume
It’s time to hide all our creations. You want to make sure that you are the only person able to open your VMs. In order
to make this possible the first thing to do it’s to open the on-the-fly encryption software of your choice from the first
step.
Create a 20 GB (or more if you want) hidden volume: keep in mind that two (Whonix + Windows) or even more VMs
will be stored inside the hidden volume. This step usually it’s complicated for tons of people. I really don’t know why,
because it’s pretty ABC. In both Veracrypt and Truecrypt documentation you will find tutorial on how to do this.
If not you can find countless tutorials via Google.
10
What is it exactly an hidden volume?
Imagine you have a volume named “X.av”. This file can be open and mounted as an hard drive with your encryption
service by not only by one password. It can be open with two passwords.
One of them will lead to a normal volume and the other one to the hidden volume.
In our normal volume we are going to save private and not illegal stuff: an example can be some kind of
embarrassing porn.
In the hidden volume we are going to save all our darknet stuff.
But why we need an hidden volume? Isn’t a simple encrypted volume enough, since it’s impossible to crack
anyway?
The answer is that we are doing this for preventing shitty scenarios to going even worse.
Imagine that LE put their dirty hands over your super-secret USB with all your stuff. They ask you the password to
access your encrypted volume cause the bastards can’t crack it.
In my country (Italy) you are not forced in giving passwords and you can even lie (“I don’t remember my password”).
In other countries like USA this kind of behavior it’s seen by the law (and not only by individuals) as a way to not
cooperate with LE and can put you in even more troubles.
So the hidden volume feature has been created for this purpose: you will give your password even under torture.
Anyway you will give the password that opens the normal volume, not the hidden one.
Keep in mind that some security experts said that there are ways of understand this workaround. So it doesn’t mean
that will fix your problems in case shit hits the fan. But it’s an honest additional level of protection.
I don’t know if from outside it’s possible to tell if the volumes are two instead of just one, both Veracrypt and Truecrypt
tell that it’s impossible.
If you are really paranoid and want more safety you can even create more than just one hidden volume.
After the hidden volume it’s been created it’s time to transfer every file in it. Go to your Virtual Box preferences (can be
found under “File” in the upper-left corner) and in the first page you will see where this software keeps every single
VM. Go to that folder, copy everything in your hidden volume. Un-mount the encrypted volume, go back to the original
Virtual Box folder and be sure to delete EVERY SINGLE VM.
As you may know, deleted files can be recovered in pretty much every OS. This is why you will immediately download
BleachBit (official website here).
BleachBit it’s a CCleaner alternative. CCleaner it’s a great software but currently not available for Linux.
Every time you powered off your VMs and un-mounted your encrypted volumes you will open bleachbit to be
100% sure to erase any kind of trace of activity from your USB.
To do this first open a terminal in your usb Linux (again, can be done with alt + ctrl + t) and type sudo bleachbit. Then
select everything and hit delete. It will take a lot of time so this must be the last operation you will do when you want
to turn off your PC at the end of the day.
After that, close BleachBit (which is now opened as Root), and type just bleachbit in your linux terminal. This will
open the software again anyway this time will delete every temporary data that it’s related to the standard user,
including the logs of everything you have typed in terminal.
This takes time and it’s frustrating. But I think it’s necessary to be more safe. Even if your USB will be lost or stolen by
a malicious user it will be extremely hard to construct your specific behavior on that USB drive.
Okay! Now our equipment should be complete and we should be ready for some action! We have a completely
hidden system, that let us use Windows in a safer environment and with TOR + VPN our connection will be encrypted
twice.
11
Security tip about your primary connection
Your ISP shouldn’t have any way to let LE investigate easy on you. That’s why you should use a 3G/4G portable
modem plus an anonymous SIM. Also, if possible, I highly recommend to not connect from your home. This will add a
priceless amount of security.
Don’t use Wi-Fi. Never. It’s not safe! If you are on the road with a 3G connection it will be more difficult for someone to
track you down. Especially if you change your SIM and your Modem after specific amounts of time.
Remember that LE investigation can start from two sides: from the end (socks5 or TOR) but even by your damn ISP.
According to Adrelanos, creator of Whonix, it’s possible that your ISP with the help of LE inject malware on your
system, starting from your PC and going through VPN, TOR, socks5… in this way they destroy you from the inside by
taking screens and data about your activity. That’s why you should NEVER use your own connection or Wi-Fi or from
an ISP plan paid with your real identity.
Additional ideas about staying safe
My security setup never failed. I’m pretty paranoid when it comes safety and here you just read my best knowledge
about it. Anyway if you want to be more safe here you can find some additional ideas.
Maybe is not ideal to apply these ideas immediately. You can start making some money and then upgrade your
security a little bit in every occasion you have free time. Use always common sense and your brain.
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Don’t keep anything that can prove something against you at home: If you do like I said you will have a
small USB or a small SD Card. The best thing is to keep this stuff hidden away or always close to you.
Don’t use txt or similar to remember your passwords: use only your brain. Make sure that If you destroy
your SD Card you don’t lose any of your work.
Also be sure to backup sensitive data (impossible to remember): you can use any online storage service
you know, just be sure to put all the sensitive data in a Truecrypt file with some extremely strong password. 32
characters or more. I personally love Mega. They give you 50GB of online storage without paying nothing.
Keep all in one (online or offline) place it’s bad, really bad: don’t centralize your sensitive data. After
creating a Truecrypt volume you can always add this to a RAR archive. RAR archives can be split in how
many parts you want. Usually I split them in four parts and upload them in different accounts.
Is it safe to play with a poker account with my real identity?
I don’t think is the best option in a long term prospective. If you are new to this it can be fine: I personally know one
person who earned 2K€ exclusively from fraud and simply his account has been banned but nothing more happened
on him.
Probably because it was not convenient for that poker room to start a lawsuit for 2000€.
However here we are talking about making a lot more money so… I highly suggest you to start immediately creating
cashout accounts with IDs different from yours. In any case, you will be forced to use your real account for a short
span of time, so… as soon you learn how to create cashout accounts you will start to develop your custom work
method to keep this project running.
Real Life Cover: the PPP (Professional Poker Player)
If you start to get good money with methods from this guide you will need a good alibi for sure. Is not safe drive a
80K$ car without a job. Here in Italy LE check very well your income. If they got an eye on you the first question will
be: “How did you get all that money?”
A friend of mine, a professional poker player which is NOT into poker fraud, was investigated by LE for his earnings.
He is making 20K or more every month with online poker. Every month PokerStars.it send him a wire transfer of 20K€
to his perfectly legit bank account. And in some months he earn even more money of course. Long story short one
bank in particular got suspicious A LOT some years ago. How is possible that a 23 years old guy make so much
money? LE comes into the scene and my friend was suddenly in their aim.
No problems for him, since here in Italy you are taxed directly from the poker room (and he is a 100% legit player),
anyway the bank (probably ran by ignorant bastards) was 100% sure he was some kind of criminal.
Remember this stuff when you will make good money from fraud. Cause if even the legit winning players are under LE
radar you can be too.
Our cover it’s the PPP of course since we earn money from Poker Fraud. This is perfect cause:
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You can travel around the world to make famous tournaments: this adds more security since you are
always moving. Often in tournaments you can give fake names and not link your real identity directly.
You can say to anyone you want your source of income: without the fear of getting busted. You are
earning thanks to poker. Damn that’s true, it’s not a lie.
You can always make up some poker cash victory that never happen: you went on vacation and you won
10K$ at the local casino. It’s not impossible.
However always be careful: If you have some time be sure to take a look at the law about Poker in your
country. Especially the Tax part. How the bastards tax your poker income? Taxes can create huge problems.
That kind of problem that sends you straight to jail.
There is also one method that at least here in Italy works great. Can be applied only by professional poker players:
be sure about your skill before using this way. This probably works only if poker is regulated in your country (.es .fr .it,
etc.) and it’s been tested here in Italy by me and even by many legit players.
You must have one legit Skrill account and one legit account in any poker room you want, but it must be a 100% legal
room in your country.
Move in some way (example: by selling bitcoins) some money into your skrill account. Then, deposit a big amount of
money into the poker room of your choice.
Play that money with your honest poker skills. Withdraw that same amount of money straight to your bank account.
Even if LE investigates they will check that wire, see that comes from a 100% legal poker room (taxes are already
paid) and their investigation will stop there.
Many PPPs move even more than 20K€ with this method when they earn money from illegal/foreign poker rooms.
Usually these kind of players play on illegal poker rooms even if they are honest for one simple reason: the field is way
more soft.
Now that we have our equipment ready and at least an idea about staying safe it’s time to move on and understand
how to card.
13
Carding
Carding it’s all about one single thing: looking like you are the card holder. The more you will look like his/her online
presence, the more you will have success.
All anti-fraud systems try to fight carding & fraud in this exact way. Every time that the owner of one particular card
use the same to make online purchases he will create one specific profile that will be stored by credit card company.
User agent, O.S. used, IPs, habits of spending, etc. These are some things that can be taken in consideration to
approve or refuse one specific transaction.
Of course this it’s not enough and credit card companies started to deploy more systems to prevent fraud. One of
them it’s VBV (Verified By Visa) and MCSC (MasterCard Secure Code), also known as 3D Secure.
VBV: consist in one question decided by the card holder. Currently it’s extremely hard to find a seller who can provide
card information with the VBV answer. Why? Cause most of CC sellers gets their card from specific attacks to
websites (example: mrbank fullz) or from spam (example: Kalashnikov Fullz). VBV question it’s not stored on the
website cause it’s asked during only in the final phase of the payment and by a different website: the one of the CC
company: VISA.
The only way that I personally know to get also the VBV answer it’s to infect directly the PC of the victim and wait tha
he/she makes an online purchase. This is a method usually less profitable or harder to use for CC sellers cause
provides less cards ready to be sold.
Anyway there is one way to reset the damn VBV question but e-mail access (the one attached to the credit card) is
required. Also the victim will often receive a SMS warning so it can burn the card even in case you got their mail.
Probably a complete ATO (you can read about it in the next pages) it’s the best option to bypass this security
measure.
Thank god not every VISA card has VBV. You can find sellers that provide you NON-VBV Cards. Also, if the website
doesn’t support 3DSecure (not every single website it’s happy to have this kind of security: it can cost more or/and
give additional problems) even if the card has VBV, that damn question will not be asked.
So, in order to get asked the VBV answer during the payment process both website and card must support VBV.
Same goes for MCSC.
MCSC: this is different from VISA’s method. MCSC it’s simply one code that needs to be entered in a different window
during payment. It can be reset just like VBV. Usually this is fixed however some banks can have a variable MCSC
that works in a very similar way of an OTP (One Time Password). In my personal experience, ALL mastercard CCs
that had MCSC had the fixed one. And only some debit cards had the variable version. Usually debit cards have
higher security cause they are linked straight to a bank account. That’s one of the reasons why I suggest usually to be
sure to get credit cards and not debit.
After these specifications about VBV/MCSC let’s go back to the start: looking like the card holder.
The following bullet list is a description about what you should change in your O.S. to match your victim online
presence. Non-avs cards are obviously more easy, cause you don’t need to fake an accurate location with proxies,
and often their security is really low. Fullz will be harder, especially if you are finding yourself against 3D-Secure
technology you just read about. Some fullz sellers however include enough data to bypass even 3D-Secure, anyway
it’s always better to find a website without this kind of security.
If you read this guide in the right order you should have everything set and ready. Start Whonix G and your Windows
VM. Then hit right ctrl+F to put windows VM in full screen mode.
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Key Information: NON-AVS Cards
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Set the real address it’s not necessary: just set the correct country.
Socks5: be sure to set the correct country of the CC.
Create a new account on your windows VM for every carded account. So if the guy name it’s John you will
create one administrator account in windows named John.
Set the right Time Zone and Clock of that country. If it’s big enough to have different time-zones it should be
enough to set one random time zone that exists in that specific country.
Set keyboard and language (of your OS) of that country.
Better have access to the card holder email address: some CC sellers include this information. However
not necessary.
If you have phone number of the card holder: put the number and change only the last digit.
Change Mac after every card processed and reboot. This is really easy with Virtual Box. Just go to settings of
your VM > network > advanced and generate another random Mac address before starting your VM again.
About MAC tons of people say that it doesn’t make any difference in web carding, while other people say it
does. I like to do it personally cause I’m paranoid and cause it takes 5 seconds to change that damn mac
address.
Additional Information: required to use Fullz
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All the above.
Set real and full billing address. I suggest you to write this exactly how has been written by the card holder. If
in the field address you have: 123 Ocean Rd. don’t write 123 Ocean Road. I personally don’t think it’s going
to be a big difference this thing alone, I just like to look exactly like the card holder.
3D Secure code: remember that lots of poker rooms out there requires this code. If you don’t want to deal
with 3D Secure at all you got many solutions: find NON-VBV cards or search better to find websites without
3D-Secure. It’s easy to find website without 3D-Secure just check their FAQ section carefully and look if you
find the VBV/MCSC badge on that specific website.
MMN: Mother’s Maiden Name, sometimes you will need it. Sometimes not.
DOB: Date Of Birth, of course must be the correct one.
SSN: only necessary in U.S.A.
Phone Number: if they ask you the phone number in the checkout phase, put the real billing phone number.
If they asking it in another phase, for example during registration of personal address or similar (not checkout)
put the real phone number and just change last digit.
Why e-mail access is recommended? Basically cause if you fail your carding procedure the card holder can receive
an email from his/her bank:
Bank: “Dear XXXX_XXXX, have you done this transaction?”
Victim: “What? No…”
That’s it. Your card is now burned and destroyed. Instead If you have mail access and you can answer to the bank
you can raise your % of success.
If your card holder receive this kind of message is not a good sign usually. It means basically you have failed with
something in your setup.
Remember: usually the more you bypass security layers (including 3D Secure Code) the more the chargeback will
be slower. Carding it’s all about looking exactly like the card holder, the more you are like him, the more will be harder
for him to notice your fraud and warn his bank.
15
Additional Safety Measures
When you are in the payment phase in some websites you will encounter non-standard safety measures. Some
examples:
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A call to make in order to “confirm” your deposit: this is a new one that I met in the last months. You do
everything right and just when you think you had success they ask you to make this call. If you don’t call them
immediately or almost immediately the deposit will fail. Of course in this case a burner phone is necessary but
should be enough to successfully complete your deposit.
Additional ID to provide: scan about the card holder to confirm the deposit. I rarely met this kind of security
measure, even if I consider any kind of website to card. In poker rooms usually they ask you IDs scans after
the first deposit to verify your account and make the withdraw possible.
Scan of the credit card (front/back): not used too much as security measure, I think cause it’s too easy to
bypass this with photoshop, and they don’t have a quick method to see the real design of the specific card.
A fax of the credit card statement: some poker rooms ask this to confirm your deposit. I don’t think it’s really
hard to bypass this, there are websites, 100% legal that lets you spoof not only your phone number but also
your FAX number. I never tried personally to bypass this, cause I prefer to simply find new easier websites.
The reason that this is a rare anti-fraud measure it’s cause it’s not safe at all for them. Maybe you don’t know
it but to change one bank/credit statement even paint can be enough: you just change the text of address
and name on the statement and you are done.
Why you should never use copy and paste when carding
Although this is not a must I prefer to always have the lowest fraud score possible. Javascript, this pain in the ass
script language can know the following things related on how you digit:
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How much time you take to write all the info related to the credit card.
How you input every single letter or number.
If you have lost focus on that page.
If you have used copy and paste.
That’s why I highly suggest you to be ready when it’s time to card: don’t loose focus, don’t’ copy/paste and don’t
take an hour to write all information.
Important Note: Check every card’s BIN
The very important thing you have to do even before buying CCs in the first place is checking the bin of the cards.
First of all you will see if that card it’s debit or credit (differences between these two are HUGE) then you will even
know your % of success with a little bit more of precision. My favorite website to check this it’s BinList. However just
with a little search on Google you can find a lot of similar services.
With BIN you will see the issuing bank of that card plus the category of that card. Here’s a little list of these categories
from the worst to the best one I know.
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Secured
Classic (Green for American Express)
Gold
Platinum
World Card (can be gold or more than Platinum, depends by the bank of that card!)
Black (usually American Express)
Signature (we are talking of cards that can have balance with 40K or even more money)
Centurion (American Express only)
Be always sure of what kind of cards you are buying. Try to avoid Debit, try to buy always Credit and possibly, make
sure they are at least GOLD. This cards can be found even in auto-shops like Vault. If you need a Vault invitation
code just send me a PM and I will give you one.
Also consider that American Express cards are not accepted in a pretty big amount of websites.
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Some Tips to get the best cards:
Always check your target first. This it’s really important. In the previous versions of this guide I didn’t wrote this
cause I thought it was pretty obvious. But looks like that tons of user around the Darknet first buy some cards, then try
to look for a website to card with those cards.
It’s an easy way to waste money. When I was a completely noob I remember I bought 10 non-avs cards from
Australia. And never found a way to actually re-invest them.
Try to not be that kind of guy, the one who spend money while he’s still developing a strategy. First of all check your
target website: has vbv? Which country/countries accept that specific website? Finally read the FAQ sections of your
target and only after these checks proceed to buy some CCs.
Ask BINs to your CC seller. You have all the right to know what you are buying. If the seller it’s good in what it does
he will be able to tell you if he have some specific BIN or not. You can ask him if he can sell you at least gold cards, if
he does have a specific BIN (or more than just one), etc.
If you have a specific working strategy buy in bulk! If you already tested a specific strategy on a specific website
and you are already making good money don’t waste your resources: ask to the seller if you can buy 50 or more card
in one time for obtaining a discount. If the amount of money required it’s high you can still involve a friend/co-worker in
the darknet to join in and split costs.
Why you should check the balance of that card
If you want to maximize your carding profit, the best way to do it, is by knowing how much money you have in the
cards. To do this, usually is enough to spoof card holder number, and call the relative bank service.
Since many websites offer this kind of service you must find the one who works best in your country. The most
popular websites are: CrazyCall, SpoofCard and SpoofTel.
Also consider that in specific countries even a random telephone number it’s enough to call and get the balance.
Sometimes it can happen they ask some kind of secret question known only by the card holder (especially if you have
a different number instead of the one attached to the credit card).You can of course use that card without knowing the
balance, but if you have balls, I suggest you to call the card holder and obtain the required information with some good
social engineering skills. Don’t use card checkers, they are useless, and usually increase your probability of failure. I
will give you another method to check cards without burning them in the next section.
If during your call you get transferred straight up to a human operator the card is already burned/blocked/destroyed. I
think every bank in the world got an automatic voice guide to tell you the balance of a certain card. So a human
operator it’s not necessary at all for this.
It can happen that if you enter some information wrong your call will be forwarded to an anti-fraud operator. In this
case it’s totally your choice, you can try to deal with him or just hang up and move on.
Remember: don’t spend all the money available in that card. I usually prefer to spend less than half of the total
amount present. If the card holder got 1000$, I doubt it he will spend all that money just for online poker (especially if
he never played poker before… Credit companies knows the card holder’s habits!)
And remember also that spending more than 500$ or 600$ without ATO (Account Take Over) usually is not easy.
How to check a card: without calling and without burning risk
There is an easy way to know if the card it’s alive or not, and it’s by using checkers. Like I said I don’t recommend
them at all, cause they can burn that specific card. A subscription website that offer some kind of free trial it’s a better
choice, cause it will check your card by not charging any money.
Just to stay in theme I will suggest you to go over to deucescracked.com.
Deuces Cracked it’s a wonderful website to improve your poker game but also to check cards. Why? They offer you a
seven days free trial, accessible only with a real credit/debit card information.
It’s also a nice way to test your carding skills for the first time. Just follow the bullet list and tips of the previous pages
in this guide and set your system according to the card holder’s information.
This website will ask you CC #, Exp date, CVV2, and name. That’s it.
After your successful carding, if the card it’s not burned you will access to the free trial. Your card has been authorized
but the payment it’s not captured. What it means? It means that the website checked that card if it’s real and alive but
not charged a single dollar.
17
th
Just remember to cancel that subscription before seven days. Otherwise on the 8 day the card will be charged.
Authorizing and Capture: understanding the difference
When you attempt to pay a specific website three things can happen: success, failure, and pending payment. Tons of
websites, (thank god poker rooms are not always included) don’t authorize & capture the payment at the same
moment: it’s an attempt for these poor websites to fight fraud.
Learn the difference:
Authorized: your payment it’s been authorized: means that data entered, socks5, system time, etc… were all correct.
However the card it’s not charged. This gives to the website a chance to check a little better your order or deposit
before risk a chargeback: an occasion for them to lose money.
Chargeback it’s bad both for us and the websites owner. It happens when the company or the card holder
discover the fraud: the money will go back to the right owner thanks to bank intervention, the card will be
burned, and you will not earn from that CC anymore.
So from their side they have specific software or websites, or both, which provides them a complete interface to
prevent fraud. And this will help them to understand if you are fraud or not of course.
These kind of softwares give pretty much always a specific score in a specific scale (depends by the anti-fraud
system).
Depending by your position on the scale your order or deposit can be successful or not. But there is also this phase,
where the card it’s been authorized and not charged, and on some websites those additional security measures we
were talking about earlier can show up.
Depending by the value of your deposit/order and by your fraud score a specific additional security measure
can appear or not.
Captured: the phase when credit card is actually charged. For physical stuff it happens pretty much always when the
actual product it’s shipped by them. In case you are carding a poker room it happens a few seconds before the money
it’s available to be played.
Once you passed both Authorize & Capture and you see your product shipped or your deposit available you can be
happy, cause your carding attempt it’s been successful.
Choosing the amount to card and Why
During your shiny career around the darknet you will understand how much you can push with every card. Only the
experience can make you understand that 50$/€ can be too much money for one card and a micro-amount in another
card. For a non-avs for example, 50$ can be a consistent amount of money. For a platinum card it’s literally nothing.
Usually the first deposit on poker rooms is not more than 250€/$. If you find a website with an higher limit for the first
deposit I advise you to not card more than 200€/$ anyway. Of course I’m assuming you just started with this game
that’s why I suggest you to do a small deposit.
Anyway carding 200$ can be a good strategy even when you completely mastered the method. Cause here I’m talking
about the first deposit. Who said that we can’t deposit again?
Let’s say that you have discovered that carding more than 100$ triggers specific security measures on that specific
website. You can start carding 99$ and once that money it’s far away from the carded account you can repeat the
process.
Of course poker rooms are not all retarded: many rooms after the first deposit ask you to verify your account. This is
when you may need to buy a photoshopped scan cause it can be worth to re-invest some money if this will bring you
an higher income.
18
Chargeback times
No matter how good you are as a carder the money in the card holder’s balance it’s now missing and often they
realize it. Pretty often it’s two or even three or more weeks later. So whatever kind of carding method you are using
you should always remember this.
There are beautiful exceptions in this since it’s not an exact science. You will find cards that never get a chargeback,
others that will be burned after three or more months of use.
So you can consider that it can happen in any moment in theory, but in reality you will have at least one week or two.
And I’m trying to be pessimistic about it.
VIP72: should you use it or not?
If you are reading carding forums you will see that lots of people are complaining about Vip72. Vip72 is the most
famous SOCKS5 service in all darknet.
A lot of people think that all socks from Vip72 are already blacklisted by Credit Companies and anti-fraud systems. I
really don’t know the truth here, anyway I can tell you:


Many carders use Vip72 with success. Including me.
You can still find higher quality socks5 than Vip72 for your activity.
Vip72 just like many others offers tons of IPs in almost every big city (and many small ones) in the world. You may ask
how is it possible? The answer it’s a botnet. Basically this kind of service (SOCKS5/Proxy providers in darknet) follow
always the same basic method. They spread malware, infect an incredible amount of PCs, and make possible to use
someone else IP via SOCKS5 protocol.
That’s the reason why it can happen that you connect to a particular IP and after a while that IP goes down. It’s
because the victim may have turned off his computer or simply turned off the connection.
This is why certain providers of this kind of service are better than others, Vip72 it’s cheap, and for that reason more
than one user can connect to the same IP at the same time. This leads pretty often to a slow connection especially if
you work often in popular cities.
A more expensive service usually have different rules and users are not allowed to use the same IP at the same time.
This has obvious consequences, for sure it will be harder for the victim to realize that his/her pc it’s infected.
I think that if you are new to all of this you should go with Vip72 despite this cons. Their socks5 client is easy to setup
and they have socks from all around the world.
Stick with my carding methods and you will manage to card even with Vip72. Anyway always remember to check
your socks5 IP address with sites like Check2Ip.com. You must always find non-blacklisted IPs and location must
match with time zone and system clock.
At the end of 2014 I realized something that greatly increased my chance of success in carding. Check2Ip.com is not
always reliable when it comes one thing: the real location of that IP address. So after a few search, I found out
another online tool to use together with Check2ip.com: MaxMind.com.
MaxMind is one of the most famous anti-fraud software around the world. With their technology you will see your
SOCKS5 Ip address with higher precision than Check2ip. It’s a paradox, we are using an antifraud software to
increase our carding success rate, but I assure you that this tool is the way to really check your location with high
precision.
You can find the tool here.
Now, every time you are about to card be sure to use this tool before Check2Ip. Sometimes you will discover that
your selected IP is in the wrong city, sometimes even in a different state. If you are using the wrong IP you can
immediately change it, no reason to check that IP even on Check2Ip.
I suggest you to just ignore all the people who are complaining about Vip72: they probably are wrong on other aspects
of their carding setup.
19
Learn from your mistakes
This is another important thing that most guides out there never tell you. It’s a little tip that will increase for sure your
success rate. Every time you fail your carding process be sure to not just run away and forget that account you just
created. Take your time, and get in touch with support of that website. Ask them something like “Hey, seems you
don’t accept my credit card, why?”
Sometimes they will not reply, sometimes they tell you that you are fraud, but it happens also that sometimes they will
tell you exactly your mistake.
Example: “Apparently your location doesn’t match with your bank database, please contact your bank”. Bam, you
have been warned that you are doing something wrong with location and you can now think how to solve this specific
problem.
Sometimes support will lie to you especially if it’s obvious that you are fraud. Depending by what they say you can
always discover the truth in a way or another, no matter what they say to you.
Another thing that can lead you to failure: hardware scans
You know it. The most popular poker rooms have at least one thing in common: they give you a software to download
and install in your PC in order to play poker. By doing this, they can learn more stuff about your machine, and they can
obtain unique fingerprint with all the data they can get. They can even see your hardware in detail. That’s why a huge
amount of people are struggling with PokerStars or some similar poker software. You manage to card it one time, then
it becomes impossible. That’s because they know that you are still the same person who tried to card them before.
There are solutions to this, of course. One is obtaining AntiDetect. With this software you can spoof pretty much
anything with their software, even hardware fingerprint.
Basically it’s a virtual machine, windows based, with some additional softwares pre-installed.
Currently AntiDetect it’s really expensive, starts from 500$ to a max of 1200$. However if you want I can provide you
for free a previous (cracked) version of AntiDetect. Just send me a PM and I will send you the download link.
This is not needed if you simply choose browser-only poker rooms. That’s one of the reasons to avoid popular poker
websites.
FraudFox: improve your success rate and optimize time management
For sure you already read about it. FraudFox became so popular that even clear-net websites talked about it.
Just like Antidetect, it’s an heavy-modded version of Windows, with one tool to manage all kind of browser spoofing
you want.
FraudFox doesn’t support hardware spoofing (yet) however will boost for sure your carding success rate and also
speed up things a lot.
This VM can become extremely useful when you card more than once every day. Carding it’s a procedure that in my
personal case take roughly 40 minutes. With FraudFox I do the same things in 10 to 15 minutes.
Especially if you are new to all of this it can be expensive (at the moment it costs roughly 100$ each month, it works
only with an active subscription)
Why I’m talking about FraudFox? To make random advertising? Nope, I’m writing about it for two reasons:
One: if you need help with it you can send me a pm.
Two: because tons of people asked me this same question a lot of times: “It’s FraudFox good for carding websites
that force you to download software (example: poker room software)?”.
It my little experience I say yes IF you card the website before installing their software. I had success tons of times on
Bwin Poker with FraudFox. All you have to do it’s card via browser and only after that download their software.
Of course like I said for our normal windows VM always keep a clean clone ready to go, so you can delete your old
one once you’ve done.
20
Step by Step in detail
Now that we discussed about carding theory here’s a step by step guide that you can follow each time you want. I
made this “guide inside the guide” thing to be more clear and to be sure that you don’t get lost in the procedure.
Step 0: I assume you already opened your Windows VM, Whonix G, and that your VPN it’s up and running. Also I
assume that you have already studied your target before proceeding in some random carding attempt. Of course our
focus is on our Windows VM. Our imaginary target here will be “targetwebsite.com”. We are going to use in this
imaginary scenario one single fullz:
Card holder: John Carded
Card Number: 1234 - 1234 -1234 – 1234
CVV2: 123
Exp date: 05/18
Zip Code: 12345
Billing Address: 123 none lane
City: Los Angeles
State: California
SSN: 123-22-2200
DOB: 10-10-1960
Phone: 123-334-4332
Step 1: open your VIP72 client. Select one random socks5 in Los Angeles. Be sure to choose one with at least 98/100
of speed. Immediately go up to create a free E-mail account. Be sure to avoid as hell email providers like Gmail,
Yahoo, Hotmail. They can lock you out of your own account and ask a phone number to verify it (during registration or
after).
Notice how we didn’t check at all our socks5. We are still not going to our target so any decent IP in that area will be
fine, we just want to create one simple free mail address.
Be sure to create this address with the card holder’s name unless you know some of his online nicknames. So we
create john.carded@freebiz.com and we move on.
Step 2: now it’s time to choose the right IP. If you didn’t use a private session on your browser before be sure to
delete all the browser history: everything.
Search Los Angeles again on VIP72 and try to choose an IP address. This time open your browser in private mode,
go up to maxmind.com, and check the location. Let’s say that in our example, from maxmind comes out Las Vegas,
Nevada, even if you just choose the correct city. No problem, it happens often with Vip72. Change IP, close the
browser. Be sure to re-open it with the new IP in private mode like before. Check again location. This time it’s correct,
you see: Los Angeles, California. We have the right location so we can move on!
Step 3: Select Language and system time (plus timezone) of Los Angeles area. Please don’t make stupid questions
like: “How do I change language on windows vista?” It’s stupid because that’s the kind of stuff that can change in
every OS and I’m not Microsoft support. So do your search in google if necessary but you have to be sure that time
zone, time and language it’s correct. For language I mean your OS language AND keyboard layout. They are both
important! It’s non-sense to try to move on with English language and Arabic keyboard layout: John Carder it’s
obviously an American guy and we assume he loves the default layout of his own country.
Step 4: go up to Check2Ip.com. This website will check your OS language, keyboard layout, time zone, if your
selected IP it’s blacklisted and more. You should see only green stuff. If you see even one BLACKLISTED forget that
IP and go back to step 2. You should also see the correct time zone with a nice OK and the right language (in this
particular case should appear as En – En or similar).
Is time zone fucked up? It can happen that location it’s correct and when you go up to check2ip you see the wrong
time zone set in your PC. This can happen for little stupid reasons or can be an error of that IP.


Hour and time zone are both the same (IP and your system): but you get that damn error. Why? 99% of
times this is because you missed the right date. It’s pretty easy to focus only on the specific hour and totally
ignore the date field of your system clock. It’s a stupid mistake that can happen. In this case is enough to
correct the date in your system.
Your system time it’s correct according to the location but that specific IP time zone it’s wrong. It can
happen that in your system you had set UTC -8 which should be the correct time zone for Los Angeles area.
But your selected IP, on check2ip.com says that the correct time zone for Los Angeles it’s UTC +1, which it’s
bullshit of course.
Some carders just ignore this and go on with carding anyway. I’m paranoid so when this is happening I prefer
to go back to step 2 and select a new IP.
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Step 5: finally we have all information in line with the card holder. It should be enough to be successful. Let’s go up
with our beautiful IP on targetwebsite.com. Create an account with our previous registered mail:
john.carded@freebiz.com and land on the payment page. If you did your homework right you already tried to get to
this page with a totally fake account to see what they will ask to you.
Enter every single information asked, remember to never use copy/paste, and possibly not loose focus on the page.
Also be sure to understand if the phone number it’s on the account registration phase or/and during the payment. If
that’s the case you will put the number as seen on the fullz you have, without errors.
Tip: if they ask you the phone number even on the payment phase you can bet your ass that they will call the card
holder if the order/deposit it’s high valued. It’s hard to define high but I like to think that it’s from 400$ or more. Of
course depends by how the website fights fraud!
Finally press submit/ok/whatever and if everything it’s good you will be successful.
Here’s two FAQ about the whole carding procedure:
What if card holder’s billing address it’s in Woodtown, which is a little village isolated by the world?
Of course in this case you will not find a socks5 of that location easily. Anyway it will happen often. The best thing you
can do it’s take a look to google maps and try to understand what is the closest socks5 location you have. Consider
that I had success even with a 150 km of distance.
Usually I try to find something that it’s in 100 km radious.
What if my IP goes down during the carding procedure?
It’s painful but not the end of the world. In this case I suggest you to close everything and try it again in the next two
hours with a different IP. I don’t think this can be a reason of failure.
How to make more than 1K$ with a single card (ATO)
With an Account Take Over you can bring your card to the next level. ATO it’s a method by fraudsters/carders to gain
(almost) complete control of a specific bank account/credit card.
We can achieve this by changing the bill phone number and if possible the e-mail address. Why? Because if our
attempt of processing the card is suspicious the bank can call the card holder or send him an email to ask a
confirmation. Our goal here is to change the phone number with our burner phone and the e-mail address with one
under our control.
If you are trying to card an object you will also need to change the card billing address with your physical drop
address.
And believe me, if you want to card 1000 dollars from a single card the bank and/or the website will call you for sure.
There are carders out there that managed to card even objects priced 3000+$ with a single card.
Also the VBV code or similar security measures can be changed when you got control of the phone and the email of
that specific card/account.
Step 1: know your enemy. You need to know what kind of information is required for a successful ATO. Unfortunately
this is not the same all around the world. It’s really different doing an ATO in USA or Italy, not only for language, but
also because they ask you different questions about the card holder. This requires trial and errors, you need to do
many mistake to understand the questions.
They can ask you: full CVV information (card number, CCV code, exp date), DOB (Date Of Birth), SSN (if you are
from US), Mother Maiden Name (MMN), car model of the card holder, driver license number, license plate, house
value, previous addresses, an important date for the card holder and much more.
They of course don’t ask you all this questions together at once but usually one of two of them. Now let’s see how you
can proceed.
Step 2: collect the required info. It’s time to call the card holder and find a way to know the correct answers for the
bank.
Just be creative. You can spoof any number you want and also use a voice changer software. You can call him for a
fake survey or you can tell him that you are the bank (just spoof the bank number or a similar one) and you need
some information from him again.
22
Also don’t forget to use Google and/or Facebook. 80% of times I found the card holder’s profile on Facebook. If he is a
male with a little bit of E-Whoring you can get all the information you need.
Step 3: attempt the ATO. Remember: keep all the information you have about the card holder in front of you and be
sure to spoof the correct phone number. Now make sure to talk with an agent/operator of that bank, usually is required
to answer questions even during this phase, before being able to speak with them.
Only make one change every time you call the bank. If you have successfully changed the phone number with yours
that’s fine, stop there don’t try to change more stuff. If you want to change e-mail address too, wait one or two days
and just repeat the procedure.
Step 4: now if you had success with your ATO attempt you are ready. Be sure to check your deposit limit on the
website of your choice if you want to card a deposit. Usually the first deposit in a poker room for example is 200/250$
max, then that limit goes up to 1000$ or more for each next deposit.
Warning: If you decide to leave completely empty that account (usually) you will burn the card in no time. You
can do it only if you act really fast. Also carding an object and carding a deposit it’s a totally different game.
The deposit can be blocked even after success, the object once it’s shipped will be in your hands one or two
days after.
Why empting the card can burn it immediately? Imagine this scenario. You are the card holder and you take your
credit card to buy something. Then at the checkout they tell you that your credit card is not working… and that’s really
strange cause you were sure to have money. You call the bank and bam, you realize that you’re a fraud victim. And
that card is immediately blocked and burned forever.
“But hey, who cares if the card it’s burned? My deposit was successful!” Of course your account on that website
will be frozen before you can move the money.
In case you decide to take all the money you can from a specific credit card be sure of this things:



You are not a noob when it’s time to chip dump a good quantity of money in a very short span of time: so you
can act fast.
You are supported by your team: it’s really hard to move 1K$ to only one or two different account. I suggest
you to split the money at least in 3 different accounts with support from a trusted person you know. You can
read this in detail in one of the next sections of this guide.
The card holder does not use this specific credit card often: you can check this after your ATO by calling
the bank. Try to learn the habits of the card holder. I found cards that were not touched by the owner from
months.
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Poker Accounts (how to withdraw money):
Now that you know how to card it’s time to learn how poker rooms deal with fraud. To be able to cashout by following
all methods in this guide you will use different types of Poker Accounts (I’m not counting the carded accounts right
now).
Your Real Account
Pros


Easy to open and manage: you create it and you can play in no time.
Easy cashouts: you can cashout easily in every way you want.
Cons

This account must be temporary (one time only): unless you don’t want to get caught. You are just starting
with this business and want to make some fast money? Ok it can be fine, however, after some good fraud
profit I highly suggest you to change account.
“Can I just change poker room and use my Identity multiple times?” Nope, you don’t want to do that, cause
you will contribute to build a pattern that can lead straight to you in future. So in this account, where your real
identity it’s involved, you will use one fraud method, one time. The best you can do it’s actually to use
immediately accounts with other identities cause that’s what you are going to do every time you need/want to
use poker fraud.
Verified Accounts with other Real Identities
Pros

Your identity is safe: more earnings and you will not end up behind bars if you follow this guide.
Cons



Easy to open, easy to verify: anyway a little bit of work it’s required. You can find a tutorial in the next
section about this.
More resources required: you will need more time (or money) to create your account and start to cashout
money from it.
Will be banned or frozen anyway after a certain period of fraud. The amount of time depends by the poker
room.
Middlemen Accounts
A middleman (usually not verified) account, can be used in order to increase your cashout account’s lifespan (and
security). Basically you can move money straight from a carded account to your cashout account, or you can add a
middleman, move your carded money there and only then move same money again to another account able to
cashout.
Just to be clear, here’s what I mean:
Method 1: Carded Account Cashout Account (without middleman)
Method 2: Carded Account  Middleman Account  Cashout account.
Or even better:
Method 3: Carded Account  Middleman Account  more than one single Cashout account.
You choice here must be based by the poker room and by the amount of time you need to create a new
cashout account.
24
Remember that using a middleman requires more work. If it’s your first time I suggest you to deposit a very low
quantity of money on a cashout account created by you, in case it gets frozen or banned you will loose less money,
and in this way you can save some time.
Of course in future especially with high amounts you will need middlemen. Acting this way the poker room will think
that the middleman account is simply a noob fraudster, while your real cashout account will be seen as legit.
Remember that if you have a good plan, composed by cashout accounts, middlemen and carded accounts it can
become extremely hard for the poker room to block you.
How to verify a new account:
Poker Rooms on .com: usually they require 2 documents. The victim National ID and proof of address. Often even a
National ID is enough.
Poker Rooms not on .com (.fr .es. .it): usually they require a national ID plus another one (not always) and to sign a
contract (easy, just sign with your non-writing hand) that you will have to send them by email or fax after you sign.
I think it’s better to have real scans of someone existing in the country of your choice to operate with your fraud.
However, photoshop scans will work if done properly. Even anti-fraud systems can’t stop them if a scan it’s created by
a professional. If you want a phoshopped scan on AlphaBay you can find tons of great sellers.
Getting real document scans for free:
This method consists in creating some Job Offer and publish it in a popular website of your choice. This works great in
my country and I’m still using this method. I never pay someone else to get scans of real documents.
Step 1: create a job offer and pretend that you are some real workplace in that area. Maybe you want a guy who lives
in a specific city or town. No problem, just publish your offer in that area and tell them you are only hiring people living
there. You must use the most popular (yet free) job offers websites in your country, and of course using your country’s
main language. Choose a workplace and name an email with that company name.
Step 2: job description: extremely important. Thanks to your description you can aim for your preferred target. You
want young male? Old female? Whatever you want you got to think to a specific kind of work. For example if I put a
job place (in my country) looking for a secretary 90% of replies will be from young women. Be professional in your
description (you can copy and modify another job ad from a different website).
Step 3: if you had write a good job offer ad you will receive tons of replies. Usually I receive 500 emails or more of
people interested in the same week. Now that we have lots of CV and personal data it’s time to make our next move.
Step 4: Write to your victim a message similar to this one:
Dear XXXXXX_XXXX,
Thanks for your apply. We have read your CV and we think that you can be a good candidate for our Company.
However we want to ensure that everything stated in your CV is true and we are always verifying the identities of our most promising candidates.
[quotes from the law in your country]
Please send to us the following scans of documents:


National ID
Proof of Address
[quotes from the law in your country] = this is where you can add laws from your country to increase your % of
success. Believe me most of the time It’s enough to quote a random law about privacy taken from clearnet. You
copy/paste the laws you can find and you modify them just a little. If you paste a middle length law text you will literally
mind-fuck lots of people. Cause most of them will be confused and will reply to you. Most of the victims will see that as
pure blah blah from laws and don’t care.
After you will reply to all your contacts with that well written E-mail message you will receive TONS of scanned
documents. Some of them will not reply, some will reply you with poorly scanned documents, some will send you HQ
scans that you can use anywhere.
A quick tip to download your documents asap is just to order your email by size. The best result usually are 1 or 2 MB
emails. The other ones with less than 100kb usually are people refusing to send they’re scans.
25
Pro tip: to have nearly 100% of success call your victims, especially if they are from your same country. Don’t warn
them, call them to talk about the job and ask them their experiences and other questions. Then, out of the blue, make
your move and ask the scans. You should never receive a negative answer: some kind of trust it’s already been
built by your nice conversation, the guy may be intimidated by the fact that you are someone who can give them a job,
and they have no time to think.
Now that you have your documents open your cash account and verify it with them.
The poker room will have not a damn choice, you will get verified. You will fail only if that person is already a player in
that website. Cause basically poker websites can’t call any authority, they can do this only when they are investigating
your account for fraud. In this phase we are still considered a legit player interested in joining their poker room.
Cashout Time!
This depends strictly by your choice and by what the specific poker room can offer to you.
Remember: to be able to cashout, the first withdraw must be (unless you are really lucky in finding the right
website) the same used for the deposit. So if you use a Bank drop of John Smith for deposit, then you will have to
use it for the very first withdraw. In any case, try always to withdraw with the best method for you and if it doesn’t work
be sure to have the original source of deposit available.
Here you can find some common options.
Drop Bank Account: A lot of you will hate this option for sure. No panic, you are not forced to choose this one. It still
can be a good choice cause poker rooms can’t ask much information about your bank drop. So you can create a bank
account with different identity than the one used for the poker room.
I’m 100% sure that you will always get the money (in Europe) if the IBAN is correct and even the account owner’s
name is totally wrong. I can’t say the same thing for USA cause I never tried the same thing there. However almost
every poker room out there accept this method of deposit/withdraw.
Deposit with your drop and withdraw with the same drop. Bank account will not get frozen or burned if you follow this
guide. However you can use one specific drop only on one specific account on each poker room.
Skrill: this is used in every poker website I know. It’s similar to paypal with one difference: skrill was created for
gambling. If you verify your skrill account you can even ask a physical card (MasterCard debit card) that can work
everywhere in the world (atm and shops). This card is perfect to receive payouts of your winnings.
As stated above you often need to deposit with skrill to be able to withdraw with skrill. If you choose hard sites like
PokerStars remember that they allow 1 Skrill address per account. You write in once on their software and you can’t
change it anymore.
PayPal: a lot of websites accept this one too (for deposit and withdraw). It’s similar to Skrill just with higher security.
Neteller: pretty much like Skrill with one huge difference. With Neteller is easier to purchase bitcoins if you prefer that
kind of withdraw. You can use LocalBitcoins to change Neteller $$$ in BTC. You can even get BTC straight on
NetTeller these days.
You can even use Virwox to change BTC and cashout money through PayPal. Warning: I can’t say the same thing for
USA. It seems that they have limited this option and now it’s harder to send funds from one Neteller account to
another.
Bitcoins: believe it or not, there are rooms out there that accepts bitcoins together other forms of payment. Withdraw
and deposit with bitcoins is very easy and it’s great for building cashout accounts and reduce payouts times. A great
starting point to find these rooms are BigCoinPoker and BitcoinPokerSites.
All the options stated here of course require that your account is verified. Not always, you will find rooms with different
policies, like my favorite: “Behave well and we will not ask any document to you”.
You can manage to find some rooms that let you withdraw even without any kind of ID but those ones get “burned”
really quickly. They sooner or later realize their huge mistake.
The only way to totally skip verification is to know some Dollaro (or ENET or similar) agent/operator that can get out
the money for you. I can offer you this kind of contact too if you need it: just ask me. Anyway we will talk about this
kind of things in detail in the final sections of this guide.
26
Alternatives from standard chip dumping
Chip dumping is not the only way. Here you can find some methods that you can use in lots of online poker rooms.
Money transfers
This method works of course only on poker rooms who support money transfer between the players. Every poker
website has its own rules but by applying this with success you will be able to adapt the method in each of them with
some work and errors.
I assume that you already have an account ready to withdraw or middlemen accounts ready to receive.
Step 1: Create and card one or more accounts.
Step 2: Time to play. Play your best TAG game. Use an opening range of 10% or less (if you are not sure how I will
tell you in one of the next sections). Choose a low stake. Don’t take too many risks and stay focused. If you deposited
200€, you will be able to unlock this money in less than a day.
Step 3: Repeat the above steps with three or more accounts. Keep ready two cashout accounts for every carded
account you have created.
Step 4: play from 1 to 3 days. This is the “difficult” part. Try to randomize as much as possible your play time. I’m
mean hours of playing and when to play. Don’t randomize your poker game too much or you will risk to loose money
for nothing.
Example
Day 1: Play with Account #1 for 1.5 hours and with Account #2 for 0.5 hours.
Day 2: Play with Account #3 for 2 hours
Day 3: Play with Account #2 for 1 hour.
Step 5: it’s time to move some money. If you followed these steps you will be ready to transfer money on a lot of
poker websites. Choose the cashout account with the lowest balance and move some money in that one from one
single carded account.
How many € or $ you got to send? Select a random value between 30% and 60%. When I say random I mean a
number without decimals. Like 47% or 55%, 32%... use a calculator if needed. Be random. You got to be low radar
and disguise with other transfers in that website. Move the money on different days until you emptied all your
accounts.
Step 6: it’s time to make a choice. Let’s say you transferred a total of 300$ in one account. Select your way to
cashout:
Option 1: you have the money already in the cashout account. You may need to play a little more to unlock
the money but you should be able to do a withdraw almost immediately.
Option 2: you have sent the money to one or more middlemen accounts. Chip dump the money to one or
more accounts ready for withdraw. To be able to do this please refer to the Chip Dumping section in this guide
(one of the next sections).
Carding and dumping on bank accounts
This is another possibility. Keep in mind that your account will be banned and your bank drop will be blacklisted on
that website. Depending by that specific room’s rules and by the amount of money carded, websites may get in touch
with your bank and cause additional problems to your bank account if you don’t move quickly.
Don’t do this on PokerStars or Full Tilt Poker. Try this in less popular websites like all other methods described in this
guide.
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Step 1: Create and verify an account with modified/photoshopped scans of documents. This is extremely important:
they must match with the card holder identity.
Step 2: After your poker account is verified, deposit with your bank account. How much? I suggest you to deposit a
good amount (400€+) only when you have mastered this method (and carding!). Starts with low amounts and raise it
slowly with your experience.
The identity attached on the bank account doesn’t have to be the same of your account.
Step 3: Now, play with that account for a while. Remember you don’t have carded right now so you don’t need to rush
things. If you deposit with a bank account under your complete control your deposit is legit.
Step 4: After you played (play well, don’t play randomly if you don’t want to loose this money) that money now check
if you are able to withdraw with your bank account. If you done things well you should still have your bank deposit
value or something around it.
Step 5: time to card! Card with your best cards as much as you can. Remember that your documents for verifying
your account must match with the CC information (unless they are NON-AVS Cards).
Step 6: get your money! Two things can happen here. In some poker rooms you are required to play some more to
withdraw every euro in your account. In less popular poker rooms it can happen that right after deposit with Credit
Card you can already withdraw everything.
This method, just like carding is not an exact science. It’s still trial and error and of course the best thing you can do if
you want to follow this kind of path is to search and try many poker rooms.
Since I never done this specific method in USA I really don’t know if it’s like in Europe. In Europe the only thing that
matters to get your money is the correct IBAN. You can even put a totally wrong name/identity but If the IBAN is
correct you will always receive your money.
G
bitcoins
If you do not have a reliable bank account source this can help you. There are tons of payments that can be converted
in bitcoins. Ukash give us the possibility to convert one serial number in real bitcoins and it’s one of my favorite.
Unless you can card ukash vouchers (lucky you), this method is not for making money. It’s just to give to your cashout
account another possibility of withdraw money and get BTC.
Remember: Ukash is not supported by every poker site. Lots of rooms (over 95%) got this possibility but not every
single one.
Withdraw with Ukash can be extremely hard or extremely simple. Strictly depends by the poker room. So, I suggest
you to always check your target website ToS (Terms Of Service) and FAQ questions to know how to plan this.
Step 1: Deposit with Ukash on the poker website, on a verified account. Deposit the max you can with Ukash.
Doesn’t really matter if Ukash vouch is carded or not. The important thing is not to card directly the poker room with
this method of course.
Why you got to use the highest Ukash value you can? Cause in lots of websites the first withdraw its limited to exactly
what you have deposited with Ukash.
Example:
You deposit with Ukash value 50$. You will be able to withdraw Ukash value 50$ the first time.
Remember: you can split, or combine more than 2 Ukash vouchers.
Step 2: time to wash your deposit. Start playing with your account until all the money it’s clean and you are able to
withdraw all of it.
Step 3: if you have not carded you still have no profits out of this of course. You can just use this account for cashout
from your other carded accounts. So, start chip-dumping some money in this account!
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Step 4: start to withdraw with Ukash small parts of your bankroll.
Step 5: go up to LocalBitcoins, or Btc-E.com, or another trustable website and get your BTC! Beware that even in
search engines you can find lots of scam websites with Ukash to BTC. Use only the most trustable websites you
know.
WARNING: always, always I repeat always test your withdraw first. You must be 100% that you can withdraw
otherwise you risk to just loose time!
Another warning it’s that the poker room can block your Ukash vouch number even after they approved your cashout.
So try to use the method at your best cause they can block you even after the withdraw with this particular method.
Ukash it’s just an example. This works also for other kind of payments. Always check in your target’s FAQ section all
the methods of withdraw that are offered to you. Sometimes FAQ sections are poorly written (especially in shitty
and weak poker websites) and in that case you are forced to create an account and see with your eyes your options.
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Online Poker Software Needed
You will probably already have this software if you are an expert.

Pokerstove (or similar, like FlopZilla): free utility that can tell you equity and win% of two hands against
each other… and more.
This kind of tool can be used also to tell you how much a specific top range is in percentage. For example if I
tell you, open with your top 10% range you can just open Pokerstove/FlopZilla and digit 10%. You will see in
detail what hands are included in that 10%.
The following image it’s a preview of PokerStove.

Hold’Em manager 1 or 2: to keep track of your games. You can find this software for free (cracked) or you
can buy it for roughly 50$ if you prefer to have it always updated.
It’s not really a necessary software when you deal with fraud but it can always help. Not all poker rooms
support this kind of software.
EtherPad by RiseUp.net: this is a free online tool that you can use to improve communication with your
team. Basically it consists in a shared text editor. All the participants can see what you are writing as you type.
Why you should use it? Cause in my opinion it’s better to take note of your team session together, to keep
any money movement traced between one team-mate to another.
If you prefer to access this tool via TOR they also provide this via an hidden service.

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Professional Chip Dumping (on your own )
Here we are. The most used in online (and not only) poker fraud. I will try to be as clear and detailed as possible.
The Basics: why they freeze or ban your account for fraud
Here you can find the most common mistakes that can make you fail.





Your account is winning too much, your bb/100 is too high: first thing you got to understand is that online
poker has become extremely difficult this days. If you are winning 2K playing at NL10 something is wrong or
out of the ordinary anyway. Acting in this way will raise flags. Of course there will be no problem if you are a
legit player… and this is not our case.
Your account is playing too many hands per hour: do you love poker bots? I highly advise you to never
use this shitty software. Poker rooms get suspicious if you play too much hands in a very small span of time.
And poker bots will make you loose money. Even legit players who play too much hands/hour raise
suspects.
They see clearly what are you doing: usually people try to not get caught by moving cash in the fastest
ways possible. Wrong. This leads always in not-usual or strange hand history who gets seen by chat
moderators or website bots in their software system or whatever the fuck they are using to defend
themselves.
Your account is always playing with the same “guys”: this is another one. Some legit professional poker
players in my country won a great ban in 2013 by PokerStars.it.
What they have done? Absolutely nothing. Action of NL1K was almost zero. Every day, all day long, only 1 or
max 2 tables at NL1K were active. This means that the same guys, every day, fought against each other to try
to win something.
And somehow the poker room was sure that some of them were cheating using Multi-Accounts. That was
not true at all but they were banned anyway by the most paranoid secure poker system in the world.
You are using grey-listed moves for giving an advantage to your opponent: poker rooms got to fight not
only credit card fraudsters but also multi-account cheating players. Result: they have a clear idea when you
are losing on purpose against another player if you act like a damn noob.
Your fraud strategy it’s too obvious. It may not be obvious first but it can be in the moment you request a
withdraw with your cashout account.
In every decent poker room every time someone new asks a payout for the first time his hand histories may
be analyzed to see if any kind of fraud pattern is present. Don’t expect to have 100% of carded money in your
cashout account.
The money of every cashout account will be composed by:
1) Deposit money (roughly 20% - 30%)
2) Carded Money: but be careful to play it again versus more than one opponent in an honest poker game
before even thinking to request a withdraw.
If your strategy consist in just dropping the money and straight request a cashout you will probably fail in tons
of poker rooms. They are not idiots.
How the poker room can check every single player?
It’s really important to understand that not only the poker room can catch you. Even other players can get in touch with
support if they have suspects about you. Usually this is totally ignored cause fraudsters just assume that poker rooms
have only automatic checks or none. They have support, chat moderators, automatic systems, but a huge amount of
fraudsters fail because other players understand perfectly what they are trying to do and report this to the moderators.
You also have to consider that here, in online poker, lots of retarded people easily think that is all rigged. They already
send lots of useless emails to online assistance. You will never know when you are actually at risk. Maybe you are
playing with people who doesn’t suspect nothing about you. Maybe you are with retarded people that call chat
moderator for some shitty flame and grab attention to your table. Maybe the moderator it’s already there keeping an
eye to potential fraudsters.
We can’t know more details than this, unless you work in support of that poker room. That’s another reason why we
got to plan really well our moves at tables. Always act like you are constantly checked by the someone.
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Other Myths about online poker (and fraud):


Chip dumping less than x% of one account is safe: this is another bullshit I read in lots of forums over and
over. If you are good when it comes chip dumping you will leave totally empty every poker account that you
have carded. You have not to give up any % of your carded value cause this can get you banned… cause it’s
not here the problem!
An extremely big amount of people in every poker room are losing everything in their poker account while
you are reading this.
What can cause problems is receiving in one specific account exclusively carded money.
In some poker websites, they can see your cards while you are playing: this is also another myth. Until
you go to showdown no one except you can see your cards. Unless you are infected by some R.A.T. of
course.
Methods and Moves: 6-max Tables
How to chip dump in the best way possible without being caught? Simply by planning every move and by playing good
legit poker. In this section I will try to go in detail as much as possible. Which is why this section can be tricky to read
without a good poker glossary if you don’t have any experience. You can still refer to the “How to improve your game”
section if you don’t understand specific words.
In every method I will tell you exactly what game images have all the players involved and also how to proceed in
detail.
Warning: if you choose that player to be fish (or tight, or LAG, TAG… whatever you want) remember to stick with his
profile! Don’t change randomly his behavior! Be consistent!
First Method: Getting to Showdown with Weaker Hand
Carded Account: fish player. This player plays a wide range of random hands on pre-flop or simply he is calling too
much bets.
Cashout Account: TAG. Tight Aggressive player.
This method can be applied every time you got the Carded account with a weaker hand than the Cashout Account.
Scenario – NL10 – 6-max:
[MP]Carded: 10$ - Hand: JsTs
[BTN] Cashout: 11$ - Hand: AsJc
(I don’t list other players cause they are not involved in this example)
Pre-Flop:
Carded calls 0.1$
Cashout raises to 0.5$
Carded calls
Flop: J♦ | 7♦ | Q♥ (Pot: 1.15$)
Carded checks (totally legit, it’s a weak passive player with second pair)
Cashout bets 1.2$
Carded calls
Turn: 2♣ (Pot: 3.45$)
Carded checks (basically nothing has changed with that 2 of clubs)
Cashout bets 3$ (legit, since carded it’s really passive, cashout grabs value)
Carded calls
River: 2♦ (Pot: 9.45$)
Carded checks
Cashout checks
When we arrive in this spot both players stack are less than pot, in cases like this if you know you have the best hand
the best thing you can do is going all in hoping to be called.
Problem is we don’t know that our weak second pair is actually the best hand, cause we are not into fraud right?
We must look like legit players. So, by checking on the river we are making a legit move and… surprise! We moved
a small value of 4.7€ totally carded by us! And no one can tell that we are fraud by this simple move.
This method is applicable with basically any hand which is something more than pure air. Just remember this things:

Carded must look like a passive fish, however he got to have something, at least bottom pair or better.
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




Cashout must keep playing slowly, unless he have two pairs or better.
In this method you must be heads up.
You can apply this method even if Carded has some good looking overcards. KJ, KQ, KT,QJ on flop like 5♦
3♣ 8♥ are overcards. Fish do this daily all the fucking time. You disguise your fraud by playing this two roles
together.
Usually Fish players: tend to call more vs light bets: ½ pot or less. The less the bet the more weaker the
hand will be. A fish with gutshot can fold vs ¾ pot bets but can call a ½ one.
Keep the behavior of fish players in your mind and you will be able to reproduce that behavior and find
always good methods to transfer money.
As you can see I just showed you a simple example. I think it’s wrong to recognize this as one method. This method
can be adapted in a huge amount of ways. By using this in the correct way you can probably start profiting with poker
fraud right now without getting your cashout account frozen.
I specified carded account to be fish. This means that if it’s fish with you he have to be fish even against other
players. So by using this method constantly don’t expect to move more than 60% of the carded money into your
cashout account. Unless you are really luck of course.
Second Method: Legit Bluffs (postflop)
Carded Account: good tight player but not too skilled. VPIP: 15% PFR: 10%
Cashout Account: TAG. Tight Aggressive player.
This method can be applied every time you want if:


You don’t have used this method 200 times in the last 10 minutes: use common sense with bluff frequency
against the same player.
You have at least 100 hands played against each other: in other words you got a little bit of history with
that player.
Let’s start with one abused (and yet profitable) strategy: 3-barell bluff.
Scenario – NL50 – 6-max:
[MP] Cashout: 70$ - Hand: something in the 20% best range. Use Pokerstove to know what hands are in the best 20%.
[BTN]Carded: 50$ - Hand: something in 35 to 40% range. Use Pokerstove to know what hands are the 40%.
NOTE: Cashout in the following spots have always nothing. Not even a single bottom pair. Carded must have at least bottom pair or 2 good
overcards (like AK/AQ/AJ over lower Flop)
(I don’t list other players cause they are not involved in this example)
Pre-Flop:
Cashout raises to 2$
Carded calls
Flop: J♦ | 7♦ | Q♥ (Pot: 5.5$)
Cashout bets 4$. Roughly ¾ of pot. Why? Cause he is a good player who got nothing, pure air. This move is done cause he wants that
opponent folds. We are talking from a legit perspective.
Carded calls (of course he calls, we are simulating fish behavior here)
Turn: 2♣ (Pot: 13.5$)
Cashout bets 8$. Roughly 2/3 of pot. We don’t bet more than 2/3 cause it’s not necessary. The legit Thinking Process (TP) here is that the
Turn have not changed much the situation. If Carded had a low point before, for sure he still have that point now and not more. That’s why we
don’t want to bet much, just enough to make him fold.
Carded: now it’s time for you to make a choice. You can make him fold here and take the money, or if you haven’t use this move for a while
you can make him call here and then make him fold on the river.
Let’s assume you want to continue:
Carded calls
River: 2♦ (Pot: 29.5$)
Cashout goes all in.
Carded folds
Cashout wins 29.5$!
Not bad. We moved more money without raising flags. Just keep in mind to NOT make this move too often. One time
every hour or every two hour can be fine. You can make it even more, it just depends by the number of hands you can
play every hour.
Remember: you can raise up frequency by make Carded fold every turn or raise it even more by make carded fold on
the flop. Of course if Carded has some nice hand (2pair+) please remember that it will be harder for a real person
rd
to just fold. Keep your games realistic. A tight noob will never be able to fold two pair. Not even the 3 barrel.
33
Always think this two questions:
1. Is this move consistent with Carded behavior that I choose (in this case some kind of passive-fish tight
player)?
2. I have done this move too much times in a very short span of time?
Third Method: Legit Bluffs using legit 3-bets (pre-flop)
Remember to apply the same rules stated in the second method: 100 hands played against each other or more and
don’t raise too much your bluff frequency against that player.
Carded Account: can have multiple images.


Tight player with more than 15% of PFR.
Fish player.
They must have in common one thing: their fold to 3bet statistic is too high. Let’s say above 80%.
Cashout Account: TAG. Tight Aggressive player.
This is a quick and extremely easy method. Earning with this specific method is not great, cause you will move a small
amount of money, however please consider that you got to apply all the methods stated in this guide and mix them
together to start making good money with Poker fraud.
Scenario – NL50 – 6-max:
[EP] Carded: 70$
[CO]Cashout: 50$ - 3bet Range: 22+ | A2s+ | K5s+ | Q8s+ | JTs+ | A2o+ | K8o+ | QTo+ I suggest to use this also on normal players who fold
too much against 3bets.
Pre-Flop:
Carded raises to 2$
Cashout 3bets to 5$
Carded folds
That’s it. Earning is only 2$ dollars but you will use this method in a wide range of occasions.
rd
Question: What I have to do if a 3 player call original raiser?
Answer: Two cases:


This player suspect that you can bluff by making a squeeze or simply he have seen you too much times
rd
making this move: reduce your 3bet range to something like: QQ+ | AK+. If the 3 player 4bets you to make
you fold of course you will go all in with that range.
Player doesn’t suspect that you are squeezing too often. So… squeeze! Both players folds and we are all
happy. You can apply this squeeze range in this spot: K2s+ | Q2s+ | A2s+ | QJ | ATo+
Question: What if more players call the original raiser?
Answer: stop immediately and don’t apply this method to get money only from Carded.
Fourth Method: Legit Bluffs using legit 4-bets and flat 3bets (pre-flop)
We are considering the same example of above cause they are really similar spots. After gaining more history
between your two players you can start simulating 4bets steals.
Remember this two rules.
1. Played hands between this two players: at least 300.
2. Like in any other method images of the two players are extremely important.
Carded Account: good or bad player doesn’t really matter. Important stats: 3bet steal percentage is more than 15%.
Cashout Account: As usual we will have a good aggressive player image. Important stats: PFR more than 16%
and Fold to 3bet less than 60%.
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Scenario – NL25 – 6-max:
[CO]Cashout: 50$ - 4bet Range: ATo | AJo | KQo | KJo You can add to this 4 hands the suited versions: ATs | AJs | KQs | KJs. This is just a
way to amplify this really small range in case your 4bet frequency is too low. As stated in third method, you can apply this exact range even vs
real opponents.
[BTN] Carded: 25$
Pre-Flop:
Cashout raises to 1$
Carded 3bets to 4$
Cashout 4bets to 7.5$
Carded folds
With the same stats we can also flat some 3bets from carded. And we will still be in legit zone. Flat this 3bet range (if
3bet steal percentage of carded is more than 15%): JTs+ | 88+
Question: What to do during postflop when we flat 3bets?
Answer: we can apply this simply rule in this particular case. I say it again: you must be HU against yourself.

If your carded player has high bluff frequency (too many 3bets against you or vs other) and at the same time
cashout player flat his 3bet often, you can deal with cashout’s c-bets by raising or check/raising.
In this case the plan from the cashout player perspective is simply to wait the bluff (raise or c/r against that cbet) and then go all in. Unless effective stack is more than 100 bb.
With effective stack of more than 100bb the game changes and even 3-bet pots can be treated more like
normal pots. Try to avoid to have an effective stack between your accounts higher than 120bb cause it can
complicate your strategy a lot.
Fifth Method: Simulating Legit Blind vs Blind aka Blind Wars (pre-flop)
We can use another easy weapon in our pre-flop fraud & legit strategy: blind wars. Stealing blinds successfully is a
basic skill of every good poker player. This basic tips are valid of course even in the real game strategy.
I don’t write any example here cause what it matters in this strategy is the history between the two players.
You must build a legit history of bluffs and specific aggressions. The image of both players is important. So I will write
the method based on your carded player’s image. Of course is even more important to have a great TAG style
image for cashout player. Cashout must always look like a great professional and winner player.
We are talking about blind wars. You can apply this stuff only when SB and BB are still in play and everybody
else at the table folded.
SB Perspective
When our cashout player is in SB position we want to steal as much as we can.
Passive fish: if carded it’s a passive fish we will simply raise with a good range of hands. I suggest to raise with top
15% (use PokerStove or similar to know this range) and slowly increase that percentage every time that you outplay
your carded account on the flop.
Postflop strategy: pretty standard. You can play hit or fold and make profit. Also, if you want to maximize your profit
you can apply my personal C-Bet strategy (you can find it in the last section of this guide). When your SB pre-flop
range gets higher than 20% you need to start applying the first two methods described in this section, especially the
second one.
Of course we have a passive fish that calls often pre and post-flop anyway it’s obvious that acting this way leads him
on postflop with shitty hands 90% of times. So it’s perfectly legit to attack him again and again.
Bad Tight player: usually this player fold too much generally speaking, and of course, he folds against every attempt
of steal. Just always raise your hands against this one. Yes, 100% of times, until he starts to reply with an effective
th
3bet strategy. With your two players you can even evolve the situation and start using our 4 method described in this
section.
Good Tight player: with this player you can apply the “Bad tight player” in the first 10 occasions. Then you have to
simulate some kind of adjustment from this Good Tight player perspective.
After you have some hands (more than 100) between your two players, carded must:

Call 50% of times or more when cashout attempts a blind steal. Doesn’t matter what hand your carded player
has.
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

At least call or raise every c-bet on the flop by cashout. Usually raise on wet flops and call on dry flops… to
just raise on the turn!
If cashout doesn’t c-bet: don’t check. Bet instantly and make cashout fold.
If we want to make money cashout must win. In this example vs good tight player looks like he is always loosing. It’s
not a loser in the long term. Now every time cashout is not bluffing and got a great legit hand, we simply choose
option number 2 (described in the three points above this text) from carded perspective and let cashout attack with
his full strength. When carded will raise on the turn you will win a really big pot and move a good amount of money.
In each one of these cases it’s recommended to always choose a preflop raise size of four times the big blind.
BB Perspective
When our cashout player is in BB position we want to protect our blinds and most of all we still want to apply a steal
over steal strategy that can make improve our profit.
Passive Fish: when this kind of player is in SB his move will be always the same (when you two are in HU): call
pre-flop with any two cards (ATC). What can we do here is simply start raising with any two cards from the big
blind. Than always c-bet at least Flop and Turn. Unless the board is extremely wet. In this case if passive fish checks
two times on postflop (on the flop and on the turn) we bet on the turn ½ pot and we win by making our carded player
fold.
Good player: like in the SB perspective this is harder to apply and at the same time it will raise our expected profit.
Even if we are against a good player most people do a HUGE mistake when trying to steal blinds. They raise in the
preflop phase, always c-bet on the flop, and then simply check fold on the turn giving up a good amount of money.
This is a great leak to exploit by simply calling (floating) often vs the c-bet on the flop and then by betting ½ pot on
the turn.
Another thing that cashout can do is simply start raising against the c-bet on the flop. Carded range will be always
weak here only if he is raising too much hands on preflop.
If a player never try to steal blinds of course this strategy is completely useless and will make you loose a good
amount of money. So, open-raise a wide range of hands in the preflop phase with carded. Sometimes to simulate a
legit game you can improve in these ways:


Carded starts stealing only with best 15% hands and avoids small pocket pairs (22-66, he just folds them).
If cashout starts to 3bet too much, carded can defend better only by reducing his range (for example, from
15% to 8%). However he doesn’t reduce his preflop size (at least 4 blinds), only his range!
This are all legit moves. If you apply this carefully it’s literally impossible that your cashout account will ever
be frozen or banned.
Sixth Method: “Extreme” Value Bets
Like I already said, we can chip-dump carded money even in spots where bluff is not involved. What I mean by
Extreme Value Bets? Basically it’s about value-betting hands that usually we are considering too weak.
Requirements: Carded must look like a real passive fish. That kind of player that calls even with a good draw (8+
outs), with just AK, or with bottom pair. That kind of player that doesn’t like to fold. And you have to be heads up with
him.
Since you know both hands of the players involved you can start betting a real small % of pot with middle pairs or
bottom pairs with some nice kicker.
Scenario – NL10 – 6-max:
[MP]Carded: 10$ - Hand: T♥ 3♥
[BTN] Cashout: 11$ - Hand: J♦ T♦
(I don’t list other players cause they are not involved in this example)
Pre-Flop:
Carded calls 0.1$
Cashout raises to 0.5$
Carded calls
Flop: T♣ | 4♣ | K♥ (Pot: 1.15$)
Carded checks (totally legit, it’s a weak passive player with second pair)
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Cashout bets 0.2$ we can bet this small amount: we don’t build a huge pot and we grab value for sure. A passive fish never folds vs this kind
of bets.
Carded calls
Turn: 2♣ (Pot: 1.55$)
Carded checks (basically nothing has changed with that 2 of clubs)
Cashout bets 0.9$ we can choose here between two pretty good moves: place a slightly bigger bet and check behind on the river OR bet a
small amount here and on the river too.
Carded calls
River: 2♦ (Pot: 2.55$)
Carded checks
Cashout checks
Seventh Method: Legit bluff raising against Flop or Turn c-bets (postflop)
If you understood the previous methods this one will be really easy to apply. The concept here is to build an image on
carded that make him c-bet too often. I personally think that this kind of players are the most spread today: you
always find them. People c-bet too much, often in an automatic and blind way.
So, if your carded player c-bets a lot and at the same time his PFR his pretty high (above 18%) you can simply
start raising on postflop. Be sure to always raise against those c-bets. I really mean always, 100% of times, because
here we don’t have to worry about frequency. If we play a good game it will not happen often to play heads up against
us vs our own fake c-bet. Can you see what I mean? In a 6-max game this is a kind of spot that doesn’t happen really
often.
To apply successfully this method follow these lines:



History between your two players is necessary: of course if we play like we already know the opponent
behavior (and weaknesses) we can get caught in no time. Use this strategy only if you have at least 200
hands played by your players against each other.
Dry Flops (something like 2♥ T♣ A♦): you can safely call flop, wait the c-bet on the turn and then raising. No
matter what you have just remember your two players must have history between each other.
Wet Flops (something like J♣ T♦ 8♦ is enough): don’t wait the Turn and raise immediately on the flop. Any
good poker player will not wait on a wet flop when bluff raising against c-bets.
Player images and their Pros and Cons
Playing poker, no matter if in a legit or fraud way, it’s like managing a micro-company. You have to take decisions
constantly and decide how to regulate the flow of money. The speed of money movements and the risk of losing
accounts are two values that increase in a proportional way.
Here’s you can see some example on how the image can affect your management.
Carded account: Passive Tight Fish
Cashout account: Skilled TAG
Pros: it’s a strategy hard to detect by any kind of enemy: players and poker room. The money lost in
transaction between different accounts isn’t much. You will be able to manage more tables cause this
strategy requires less focus.
Cons: extremely slow.
Carded account: Passive Fish
Cashout account: Skilled TAG
Pros: it’s a fast strategy.
Cons: more focus is required because this strategy is more likely to be detected by your enemies if abused.
You have to use it carefully.
Money lost in transaction between different accounts can’t be a good amount of the carded money cause you
will be “forced” to lose money on purpose even versus other players.
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Carded account: Skilled TAG
Cashout account: Skilled TAG
Pros: moves great amounts of money and at the same time you will win even versus other players at your
table, not with only one account, but with two.
Probably the most profitable strategy, especially when both accounts are in upswing phase.
Cons: it’s a slow strategy and extremely stressful to apply. Can be detected by your enemies if you are not
careful enough cause your two accounts can be accused of collusion. As a direct result you will play less
tables than usual.
You will be affected by downswings in some way, just like legit players, in specific span of time it can happen
to lose a big amount of money.
If you are not skilled enough you will lose money and your time.
Mastering this strategy it’s an absolute requirement for 100 NL or higher levels. I’m not saying you have to use only
this one in those levels but it’s a must if you want to maximize your income.
Further Considerations
You should always mix methods and strategy about your account’s image. Doing the same things over and over it’s
bad for your income and for your entertainment. If you keep to fake a fish image for example you will slowly become
one. If you do the opposite you will go insane.
When you are using your cashout player against your carder remember always to respect the power of each other
hands. If carded has straight and you got nothing don’t make any magic move to make carded folds and to force
your winnings.
This is the kind of stuff that can raise suspects. Imagine, you are a player with no experience, would you ever fold a
good point? I don’t think so.
In case carded hand is really good, simply stick to your strategy and lose on purpose to him, after all you will recover
that money later and this is part of the game.
Another tip: always think what’s behind this methods and how they are possible in a legit game. In lots of methods
history is necessary otherwise you will fail. You must play while seeing hands of both accounts (carded and cashout)
and at the same time you have to fake that fraud is not happening at all. It’s a skill that requires time and practice.
I guess you are starting to see how to be successful with chip dumping: you must look like a legit player (skilled or not)
at all costs!
Multi-Tabling in Poker Fraud
How many tables can you play? It’s another question you have to answer. Six? Ten? Barely two? When I ask you
this I mean how many tables you can play with 100% focus.
Please consider that when you got two virtual machines in the same screen it’s not easy at all moving from one virtual
pc to another. I personally use two screen (I was a legit player after all) but still, I can play a total of 6 (sometimes 7)
tables. Not more. Usually when I’m playing honestly I can reach 10 tables or 12. My advice is, even if you are not
new to multi-tabling, start with two tables in Cashout VM and one single table in Carded VM.
Then you will know for sure when it’s time to add more tables. It’s just awareness and common sense.
Bankroll
If you search on clear-net you can find a huge amount of tips and rules to manage your bankroll. I suggest you to
ignore all of them and follow these lines.
Carded player: it depends by the skill and the image we want to build about him. I think that if we fake a TAG player
we can earn more money. However it requires skill and good knowledge about poker like I said. If you choose this one
play on every table max 10% of your carded bankroll on that poker room.
If you want to play higher levels and move more money with TAG Players in both sides I suggest you to deploy
middlemen accounts.
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If you are a beginner you will choose for sure to fake a fish player. Well, these guys are usually really stupid, they just
play without following any bankroll rule. You can play the whole bankroll on one table or split the bankroll between two
tables. It’s legit, for a fish player.
Cashout player: this is where you will need to invest a little of your money. If you can’t spend 200$ much I suggest
you to deposit what you can and play an aggressive bankroll strategy. Remember that we are talking from a cashout
account perspective.



I’ve less than 100$ or even less than 50$ to invest in this account -> Aggressive Strategy
o Start from the lowest stake available in your poker room (usually NL2$)
o Every time you win 5 stacks, attempt a level up.
o Every time you loose 2 stacks, level down immediately.
o If you are already at the lowest level, and even with poker fraud, you have lost everything you will
need to study more your strategies and try again.
I can spend 100$, not more -> Standard Strategy
o Start from NL5. Find a room that has NL5, it’s not advised to play NL10 with 100$.
o Every time you win 10 stacks, attempt a level up.
o Every time you loose 3 stacks, level down.
I can invest a good amount of money: 300$ or more -> Conservative Strategy
o Start from NL10. NL10 is the best for beginners: rake is not like in the lowest levels and you should be
able to start winning decent money.
o Every time you win 20 stacks: attempt a level up.
o Every time you loose 5 stacks: level down.
o Don’t play over NL25 or NL50 if you don’t feel confident with that amount of money and with your
poker skills.
By following this kind of strategy what is happening here is that even when we level down we can earn some money.
Try some examples with the Conservative Strategy and you can see clearly that you are making money even if you
are continuously going up and down between two stakes.
Especially if you invest an important amount of money in one single account be extremely careful. Don’t do fraud
every single day in that account. Actually, the best thing you can do, it’s split your bankroll in different accounts and try
high-risk strategy in some of them and conservative strategy in others. I’m not talking about the bankroll strategy here
but about fraud strategy.
For example if in one account you have deposited 300€, you should start really slow: play honestly at least 10 hours in
different days and only after that start receiving money from carded accounts. And even at that point use your fraud
scheme three or four days per week while playing honestly the remaining three. Your accounts will last for months.
If you invested 30$ in one cashout account you can do the opposite. Start fraud immediately and do that every day
until that account gets banned. Of course remember always that going too fast will burn your account anyway
especially if you win only vs your carded accounts.
Cashouts: when to withdraw your money
Of course we all love it and that’s the reason why you are reading this guide. I suggest you to not spend your earnings
too soon by following these rules.


If your bankroll is under 300$: the reason for cashout here is simply one. Since you are a beginner with
fraud you are afraid of seeing your account frozen or banned from that poker website, with the obvious
consequence of losing your profits. In this case of course I suggest you to withdraw the money however
don’t spend it! Please consider that money still a part of your poker bankroll even if it’s not in that poker
site anymore. Until you have a decent bankroll your earnings will be too low to go up crazy with real withdraws
(when the money will go from darknet to your hand).
If your bankroll is above 300$ than start to withdraw the Rakeback (and similar bonuses) every month. And
keep your profit from game and fraud inside your darknet bankroll (not all in the poker room bankrolI!).
Here in the next paragraph I’m talking about your total bankroll which is the literally the amount of money in bitcoins
that you have saved for your darknet activity.
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The best thing you can do it’s to decide a certain amount of money that is more than enough to continue this circle:
1. Buying Cards.
2. Monthly expenses (VPN, SOCKS5, or more, like FraudFox and other stuff).
3. Have 50 stacks of the stake you play more often.
Let’s say you play mostly NL20$ and you need 10 great quality fullz (15$ each) every month. Plus you pay a VPN
service (10$) and Socks5 service (30$).
Legit Bankroll >20 * 30 = 600$
Monthly security costs > 40$
10 High Quality Fullz > 150$
Total Bankroll = 790$
This is an example of a good player of this fraud scheme. Believe me, once you start to get a stable income you don’t
want to blow up all your money and start again from zero. In this example every time you go above 790$, you can
cashout. You are absolutely free to decide when, it’s only up to you.
Why I suggest you to follow this? I don’t want to say that you need absolutely 800 dollars to start in this stuff. What I’m
trying to explain is that once you are fully active in this scheme you must always have money to continuously earning
money.
Imagine if every month you spend up all your earnings plus your bankroll. You got to start it all over again. I’ve written
this little paragraph just to prevent this kind of shitty scenario.
Methods and Moves: Heads Up Tables
Even if I really advise you to not chip-dumping money in heads up tables (cause usually people get caught in no time
here) it can happen to play this kind of game too.
It can happen that you are late with your chip dumping and you think chargeback it’s going to hit you very soon. This is
a method that you must follow only when you want to speed up things in some kind of emergency scenario. Or maybe
to test that room’s security.
In heads up the game speeds up a lot. It’s considered normal to lose or win 15 stacks in 2 hours when you are playing
this kind of games. In a single 6-max game it’s extremely hard to move that amount of money in such a short span of
time by playing a single table.
That’s why I’ve created this section, to trying to guide you in the best way possible in this particular spot. However try
to organize yourself in some good way where you have time to work in 6-max games.
We’ll talk from cashout player perspective. It should be enough for you to create your own methods. Like in a 6-max
game your image must be really similar: a good player with strong poker skills, while carded can be a retard or a good
player.
In heads up you can be only in two positions of course: In Position (IP) or Out Of Position (OOP).
Warning: this is a basic strategy that can be valid vs some unknown player. After 200 hands one of the two of your
player must start some counter strategy or attempt in some way to defend better his money.
IP Strategy: valid for fraud and legit poker.




Play 100% hands: until your opponent starts fighting back to you, you must raise all your hands during the
preflop phase. All of them even the worst ones.
If your opponent starts to 3-bet you must reduce your opening range.
If your opponent starts to call you too often that doesn’t mean it’s a real problem, it depends on how he will
play postflop OOP against you.
C-bet all the time only if the value of your hands are weak or really strong. Don’t c-bet when you got middlevalue hands and check behind instead. I’ve tried to create some kind of image to explain better this concept.
You can find it in the next page.
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Imagine this red line. All the possible values from the weakest to the strongest. You must look now at your hand in
that spot and think in what category you can place it. It’s a middle valued hand? Ok, don’t bet. It’s some weak hand?
Time to c-bet.
Weak, middle and strong: this 3 values can change on different kind of flops.
Examples:
Flop is: 4♥ 5♦ J♦
Weak Range: Bottom Pair or worse, flush or straight draws, middle pair top kicker. Bet.
Medium Value: Middle Pair and over cards (AQ, AK). Check.
Strong Range: Top Pair or better. Bet.
Flop is: 6♣ 7♣ 8♣
With this flop it’s really hard to choose hand values. As you can see it’s a particular extreme case. I think on this flop
without knowing much about your opponent it’s fine to c-bet with a lot of hands. Usually (not always) people are
scared as shit on this flop and they quickly fold. Since it’s not a standard spot I suggest you to not follow this c-bet
rule.
Flop is: 7♥ 8♥ K♣
Weak Range: Bottom Pair or worse. Middle Pair.
Medium Value: Top Pair.
Strong Range: Combo-draws, two pair or better.
I hope it’s a little more easy for you now to decide when it’s time to c-bet or not in HU games.
If you c-bet on the flop, of course you must c-bet on the turn pretty much always. When you are thinking on what size
your c-bet should be I suggest you to don’t build a huge pot.

Ace high has showdown value: you must remember that we are playing heads up. In a 6-max game usually
Ace high has not showdown value however in heads up it’s different. You are against only one opponent that
is pretty much forced to play with much more hands. This changes everything. In one of the examples above
we have considered Top Pair (any kicker even 2) part of our strong range. That is simply impossible in a 6max game.
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OOP Strategy: valid for fraud and legit poker just like above.
Of course the warning is still valid.
Warning: this is a basic strategy that can be valid vs some unknown player. After 200 hands one of the two of your
player must start some counter strategy or attempt in some way to defend better his money.
If playing in Heads Up game is already hard, playing in this game OOP (Out Of Position) is even harder.



Your default calling range OOP: 9T+ | J9+ | Q9+ | K9+ | K8s+ | A8-AJ | A2s+ | 56s+ | 22-99
When you have to call vs your opponent’s c-bet:
o Top-Pair: low and middle kickers.
o Middle Pair: opponent will probably c-bet a lot of times. In HU, this means that vs some wide range
middle pair can still be the best hand.
o Strong Draws with an high Ace or an high King. This kind of spots can greatly improve with a single
Ace or King on the turn or with one of the outs that we need.
o Set (three of a kind with a single card on flop) only if Flop is really dry. Why? Cause we don’t want
that our opponent folds here. By check raising we are showing too much strength on a dry flop.
When you have to check-raise vs your opponent’s c-bet: we choose to play a polarized range here. What
is a polarized range? Basically some range composed by weak hands and really strong hands.
o Strong hands: TPTK or 2pair or better. Only do check-raise with TPTK (or better) if you are ready
to go all in. Otherwise just call!
o Simple draws:
 OESD (Open Ended Straight Draw): 8 outs.
 Flush Draw: 9 outs.
 Gut-Shot + 1 over card: 6 outs.
 If you miss your draw on the turn don’t check all the times. C-bet if the turn is an over card
or if the card completes other draws.
o Bluffing: you can check-raise with nothing if you are vs a certain opponent who c-bets often and/or
on dry flops.
3bet Range in Heads Up games
There’s only one way to 3bet in HU games. From the button (BTN: bets, CO raises, BTN 3bets).
You can use this standard range: 99-AA | KQo | AQ | AK
3bet and fold vs 4bet range: 99-TT | KQo
3bet and all vs 4bet in range: JJ | AQ+
Feel free to amplify this ranges if you already know that your opponent is fishy. Remember that if you want to
simulate fish behavior you must already met that player at the tables. The website must see that you already played
with him if you plan to automatically consider him a fish even in HU.
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Poker Fraud in Team
Team Roles
To simplify the main concept we imagine two kind of roles for the people who are in your team.


Carders
Receivers: player that receive carded money and that are able to withdraw from their poker account. AKA
Cashout accounts.
During your Poker Fraud carrier you will create other roles for sure but right now let’s just consider this two to keep
things simple.
Team Moves - Carders
Your goal of course is to card the website and don’t raise any flags.
Step 1: card one or more account. Follow a specific plan already made with your team. How many stacks can you
card? How many stacks can you drop to each receiver? These two are just basic questions you and your team should
plan everything in detail.
Step 2: start playing. You must play legit poker here. Don’t throw away money by playing randomly or by losing on
purpose. It’s not needed. Before playing be sure to choose:



Your player’s image at tables
Your stake and your bankroll management rules.
Choose between 6-max games or heads up (only in emergency cases!): why we don’t play 9-max? Cause in
that kind of game action is more slow. By playing 6-max we can get away with more money in less time.
You have to follow the methods described in the Professional Chip Dumping section of this guide or create
new ones based on what you have learned.
Step 3: play with this account 1 to 3 days. Play during hours when lots of player fill the poker room. The more the
players, the more it will be easier the legit game (more fish present at the tables)… the more you will make money.
Step 4: after some hours of playing (usually I choose to play at least 3 to 10 hours of legit poker) you can start giving
money to one (or more) Receiver players in your team. Even during this phase you will keep playing legit poker.
Team Moves Receivers
We don’t really need a step by step guide here. Just some tips on how to receive carded money in the best way
possible.




Never play bad poker: always be a legit player. You want to win as much as you can just like everybody
else. You have to stick to the skilled TAG image.
Keep always a TXT file or similar and an EtherPad (we talked about this in the gaming software section) to
keep track of all the transfers between you and your team mates. It’s important to keep track cause you can
lose the count pretty fast on how much you gave for the actual cashout.
Never accept more than 5 stack per day from a single carder. In reality it’s really difficult to win more than 5
stacks from a single certain opponent. This kind of details are the ones that make the difference between
getting caught or not. And be random: don’t receive everyday at the same hours from the same guy always 5
stacks. Change your variables, time, money dropped, hours of play.
And don’t be online always at the same hours with the same accounts.
If possible keep track with a poker software like hold’em manager how much is your “winning rate” (including
carding money in bb/100). Don’t keep your winning rate too high or you will grab unwanted attention.
o 10bb/100 in NL10 is still fine.
o 10bb/100 in NL20 is too much in most of the poker rooms I personally know.
o 6 bb/100 in NL20 and NL50 is fine.
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

o 4 bb/100 in NL100 is fine.
As you can see the more we move up, the less the bb/100 value must be. On every level the game
becomes harder. Use common sense in deciding how much bb/100 you should have.
Be also a legit player: don’t play only when it’s time to meet with your team mates. Play even when nobody
of your friends is online. Remember that you are a professional poker player, that’s why you are winning often.
And Poker Pros are playing A LOT usually. At least 2 to 4 hours every day.
Have a decent bankroll: good poker players don’t withdraw their entire bankroll. The usually choose a % and
withdraw that amount one time every week or every month. I will never say this enough: if you want to
succeed you MUST look like a professional!
And finally I want to say something that is valid for both sides of your Team. If you don’t find good team mates you can
profit for sure by playing alone. Anyway I’m 100% sure that by acting in team and not completely alone will make you
earn much more.
Two things are required to work well together and make good money:


Be honest
Be professional
By being honest I mean don’t cheat and steal from your own team mates. It’s totally retarded and it will make you lose
bigger amounts of money that you can earn with them.
By being professional I mean to not be a jerk, treat everyone in your team with respect, don’t discuss about off topic
stuffs too often, stay focused on your goals and so on… and also be always on time. I have lost count of how many
people I have discarded from my team cause they were always late when it was time to transfer money.
Also, in a good team, everyone it’s able to play both with a carder and a cashout account. Changing roles from time to
time helps to reduce boredom and keep having fun while making money.
Best Dropping Strategy
The best thing you can do (to bypass security) is losing your carded money against more than one player. That’s why
I’m thinking that the best thing to do is playing in team and not alone.
Let’s say that your team it’s composed from 2 carders and 4 receivers. You can split the carded money by two or by
some random amount each time.
And of course always remember that the more you are the more you can card, and of course the more you can cash
out. Imagine a team composed by 10 people or more. You can split the money several times, the carded money will
be definitely more and of course it will be much harder for the poker room to catch you.
Collusion: multi-account tactics and social scams
The most popular methods of collusion are two: Soft-Play and Whipsawing. Of course dumping money on purpose
to a team mate can be seen as collusion. Anyway you have already read about chip-dumping.
Soft-Play consist in playing nicely with your team mate. This means: don’t value betting enough your hands, fold
powerful hands, and similar ways to make your team mate life easier. This of course is stupid and can raise huge
flags. In case of collusion both your accounts will be frozen. You can avoid this one easily if you follow my guide.
Whipsawing consist in two or more player that are raising, 3-betting or 4-betting with shitty hands, in order to exclude
other players on purpose. This is another technique that a lot of retarded people use. Of course you must avoid this
one too. Not only this method will make you fail, also you will never make a good amount of money with this poor
strategy.
Just like when you are chip-dumping money, you need to stick with your player image. Don’t change your style
when a teammate sits at your table.
There are tons of scams and multi-accounting cases in poker online history. Even nowadays I’m sure a lot of poker
professional are cheating without involving carding or darknet. Let’s see a classic one.
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The “Girah” Scam
Jose “Girah” Macedo was one of the most popular online poker around the world. He has won millions with heads up
games. However nobody is sure on how much money he has won by playing honestly.
You know, when you are a poker player, usually you do these kind of group chat on Skype or similar software. What
happen in this groups? You can find other people just like you, who wants to improve their game and play better to win
more money.
These groups are made by legit players who don’t even plan to cheat in online poker. They just talk about poker and
exchange knowledge just like fraudsters do on forums in deep web like Evolution, TCF and now AlphaBay.
What Macedo has done it’s pretty brilliant. He told to his poker friends that he met this player, Sauron1989. This
Sauron was extremely strong and Jose proposed to his friends to play against him and analyze his style together to
learn more and improve their game.
To do this basically, Jose met with one of his friends on Skype, and asked to share the screen. In this way Girah was
able to see his friends playing against Sauron.
Sauron1989 was, of course, Macedo. In this way Jose was literally seeing his friends cards in real-time.
Pretty nice playing heads up knowing every time what hands has your opponent. However, after he literally stolen
money to many of his friends, Girah felt guilty. And he confessed the scam.
He made almost 30K$ before confessing.
You of course can use this story to build your own method of scam. If you are not a numerous team and have little
money to invest you can use this method to scam a specific group of players. If you are a group of two or three you
can join a group of ten. To find a group of victims you just have to use a poker forum.
Subscribe, write some post here and there, and open a new topic. Something like “Searching other microstakes (or
low stakes, or middle) players to improve my game” can work greatly.
When you reach the victim screen you just have to chat with your team mate to communicate him the cards of your
victim. Depending on how many people your team has, you can apply this scam not only on Heads Up games, but
also on 6-max games.
This method have great advantages:




Both sides are doing whatever they can to win money: the poker room can’t suspect anything.
Unless your victims are not from high stakes, it will be really difficult for them, to realize your scam. Almost
impossible to be honest.
You will never get caught if you do this right. And you can fuck the same victim more the once.
You can reach even more victims by advertising yourself as a winning poker coach. Just create a topic, and
offer 5 hours of free coaching for your favorite stake. This requires more knowledge of poker of course and
the best thing you can do to obtain students victims is to post a nice looking photoshopped graph from your
HoldEm Manager software.
The Simple Rape Scam
I like to call this Simple Rape cause here you will literally rape your opponents ass by playing a 4 vs 2 game. You just
need four team mates and join together a 6-max game. You can do this during your chip-dumping phase to increase
your Team’s profit.
You will play in this table together meanwhile you are all chatting in some third party software: you can exchange tips,
take notes about this two players, and exchanging advices in the most critical spots. So basically, each time one of the
two victims is vs four poker minds and not one.
Basically you are playing 4 vs 2 and I mean without using Soft-Play or Whipsawing. You don’t have to worry if you
lose money with your team mates.
Why? Because your team profit can always be split in equal parts. You may not understand this now, anyway I
can assure you that if you are honest with your team and split earnings in equal parts, you are literally raping the two
victim’s asses. Of course is required that you are already a winner in that stake.
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The Forum Staking Scam
This method has been literally abused in every online poker forum I know. It requires time, and I’m honest, I never
tried it anyway the payout will be pretty big.
Do you know what I mean when I use the term Staking? First thing first don’t confuse Staking with Stacking. They are
two different things. Stacking is when you win another player’s stack. Staking is when a certain player is supported
with money by another player or investor.
Usually is something like: “Ok, I give you 2K€, you play cash games (or tournaments) and I keep rakeback bonuses
and 20% of your winnings.”
In one poker forum they had this guy, called DonCrisp. He was a really nice guy, not too much expert about poker at
first, anyway he had over 1K post and become quickly (a few months later) moderator on that forum. And believe me
that forum was not a small community.
While being a nice guy with everyone on the forums and on Skype, in the meantime he was secretly asking for staking
at every one he had befriended with. He simply obtained respect and trust and grabbed the money. Sometimes the
people on the forum simply send him over some money, sometimes they created an account for him in some poker
room, just to be sure he wasn’t able to withdraw money. You know of course, that you can simply chip dump the
money, but they trusted him.
Then when he took over 60’000 € (60 thousand euros) in like three months he faked a car accident and disappeared.
He scammed with this method two poker communities, then he probably repeated the scam with another identity. This
is the most crazy case I know about this kind of scam, of course he was an incredible social skilled person, anyway
I’ve seen this method abused again and again. Usually this retarded people don’t’ work well like in the first case but
burn quickly their method after stealing 1K or less. Cause they do it with their real identities.
Nowadays is not easy being successful with this kind of scam. Anyway is still possible. You can always find someone
that offer you some staking if you can look trustable.
It’s not exactly the goal of this guide to make you scam people instead of poker rooms, anyway I thought to add this
cause is strictly poker related.
Tourney Assault
Another option you have when you are in control of 3 or more accounts is trying to play together tournaments or
DoN (Double or Nothing) games.
This is a method that can’t really burn however you must be at least a weak winner in your selected games.
The most famous I know is of course using multi-accounts to raise your percentage of winning good tournaments. If
you play with one account in 150 people tournament you can win. If you play with 20 accounts you will win more often
and you’ll make more money for sure. This can be used in any poker room in the world. Actually there are people who
are using this even in real life tournaments.
Double or Nothing games can be another target but I really don’t know if this specific is available outside PokerStars.
DoN is a game when half of the players double their money, while the other half lose. There is not a single winner, the
game terminates when half of the players managed to survive.
Some Asian (that got busted using this method with their real ID) manage to win over 600K$. There is no need to be
an expert here, simple you and your team join half of the players in some DoN game then just play a good TAG style.
While other players that play alone have not the guarantee to be successful in the long term your team of course will
win, cause it’s pretty easy that three of you will manage to be ITM.
46
Search and Destroy
This is a multi-account tactic that can work only if you (and eventually your team mates) are really expert about poker
theory.
Requirements:
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You usually can take note and recognize a leak in your opponent’s game.
You have Hold’Em Manager and you know how to use it to analyze your opponent’s game.
You are a winner in the stake where you choose to apply this method.
You know how to organize you and your team while you are playing and can communicate with team mates
in a efficient way.
Is simply the most destructive way to win crazy amounts of money. This is a non-legit method used even by real
professional. There’s people out there that made millions with this without being even banned from the poker room.
Cause it’s unethical but hard to prove at the same time.
Step 1: analyze the field with your Team. Understand which are the regulars. Choose the ones who play the most.
Two or three winning regulars can be already too much. However this depends by your team size and skills.
Step 2: Analyze your selected opponents game. Be sure to do this together with your team. Together you will able to
find any damn leak of this poor guys game.
Step 3: when you know the leaks in their game it’s time to search them and sit at the same table with them. Be sure
that at least two guys are vs one of this opponents.
Step 4: play legit, even against your team (you can always split the earnings by two at the end of the day) and make
sure to exploit the regulars together with your team as much as you can.
Step 5: continue until the victims run away or literally throw you money over money in your direction. You may not
realize this now, however winning 10 or even more stacks from one single opponent can became a standard by
using this strategy. The poker room can’t literally do NOTHING to you or your team, because the website can’t be
aware that you are together with other regulars. This method also has the consequence to raise the fish % at your
stake, ergo, boosting your winnings over the sky.
Useful and Vulnerable Websites
Originally the idea of this section is to give some guidelines on which website start your project. Today, after almost
eight months that this guide it’s around I realized that this section it’s not useful as I thought.
Finding websites is a dirty work. The truth is that no one will do your dirty work for you for nothing. I’m not keeping
secrets cause currently in this list you find the websites that I’m using.
But I will not add vulnerable websites anymore, for two reasons:
1: I’m using these websites and I’m just fine. I’m not going to invest time in digging more websites.
2: I want to motivate you in finding more website by your own. It’s easy and takes some google research. I suggest
you, if you find a specific vulnerable website, to keep that information for yourself.
Every website it’s cardable of course, and by vulnerable I mean a website with low security and without any form of
confirmation/verification.
Any other case it’s just a standard website. Remember that even VBV/MCSC websites can be attacked with these
methods, you just need to find non-vbv cards, or use another brand and not MasterCard or Visa, or even better find a
seller who provides also this information.
Here you can still find a detailed list of websites that can be useful to start using the methods listed in this guide. Like I
said this are not the only websites where this guide works. The methods described here work in every online poker
website.
Another note: if you find only the name of the website and NOT the direct link is because that room change web
address pretty often. And they are not always easy to find without having contacts with their support.
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This kind of poker rooms are usually the ones from Dollaro Poker now called DBG Poker. Rumor about this network
says that it’s managed entirely by Italian Mafia. Cashing out from this one is not easy like normal poker rooms but at
the same time they are very vulnerable to chip-dumping and even more to multi-account tactics.
If this is not enough they have the most easy poker field I’ve seen in my life.
How do you cashout from shady poker sites? You have to find an honest poker agent. This guys usually manage
bonuses and cashouts and also deposits. Don’t trust that agent immediately. Start with low cashouts then raise your
value with time and trust that you feel about him.
Of course NEVER EVER tell to your poker agent that you are into fraud! You are a good player who search good
deals and fishy poker rooms.
This agents earn money with the amount of rake generated by your account. The more you play, the more they will be
happy to help you with bonuses and cashouts.
If you do a quick search via google you can find tons of people complaining about dollaro. Saying it’s a scam room or
worse. They are not scams they just work in a different way.
The cashout is usally really easy when you have an agreement with a poker agent.
You click on withdraw of the selected website, select an amount, and retrieve a secret code. You can’t cashout with
this code if you are not a poker agent. Give this code to the poker agent and he/she will ask you: how you wanna get
paid? Wire Transfer? Skrills?
Some of them accept even paypal.
Where I can find poker agents?
They are not easy to find at all. A good starting point is this link. However they usually don’t have websites so you got
to find them on poker forums. The best forums are the Italian ones of course but on some of them is against their rules
to talk about Dollaro and their agents.
However send me a PM if you need a poker agent. I know a good poker agent that is available even if he knows you
are into fraud.
Suggested Websites (EU and also Worldwide):
Warning: only cause you see DBG Poker software logo in lots of this rooms this does not mean that they are in the
same network! Also, just cause you see that DBG Poker Logo does not mean that you will need a poker agent.
Be sure to ask to the support if you need a Poker Agent to withdraw your money.
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Adjara Bet: https://adjarabet.com/en
Apuestas 3000: apuestas3000.net
Bet2290: very easy, I don’t know if still active, can’t find the link. Last link known: bet2290.com
Bet610: can’t be find easily with search engines: https://www.bet610.com/
Remember: if you choose this kind of rooms remember to keep in touch with a member of support (usually
you can always add them on skype or similar). If they change link they should tell you but expect anything
from them.
BetaLand: http://home6.betaland.com/en
Recently changed in two different networks, poker dream and Tilt poker, which is not the original Full Tilt
Poker.
BetClu: http://home1.betclu.biz/
BetFive5: http://betfive5.com/en-GB/Home/Home-new.aspx
BetPKcasino: http://betpkcasino.net/www/
BetUniq: http://www2.betuniq.eu/ [not easy when it comes carding cause they often redirect you to Skrill]
BetXGames: http://betxgames.com/
BillBetPlus: http://www1.billbetplus.eu/
DBG Poker: http://www.dbgpoker.com/www/
EuroPK: last link known is EuroPk.ro [this room was one of my favorite, extremely easily to card and for chipdumping]
FSA Bet: http://www.fsabet.com/
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IperBet: http://iperbet.net/
ItalyWin: http://www.italywin.it/ [not sure if they accept players outside Italy, I’m still using this one]
LireBet: http://lirebet.com/Sport/Default.aspx
Pantaloo: http://pantaloo.com/register
SkyInBet: https://www1.skyinbet.net/
Bwin.es
RedStar: bitcoins accepted.
WinPoker: bitcoins accepted.
InfinitiPoker: bitcoins and credit cards accepted for deposit and withdraw. They also offer a flat 50%
rakeback.
Considerations on this links:
You should use this links for what they are. Starting points. My goal in this guide is to give you knowledge to be
independent in making money with Poker Fraud. Remember you are learning something that can’t burn. How
much does it take to find a new poker website? Is enough to make some search in clear net or poker forums and
you’ll find tons of vulnerable websites. In this guide I’ve written a crazy amount of times to avoid PokerStars or in
general the most popular ones cause they have the best security systems.
Anyway even the hardest room can be beaten. It’s hard. However it’s not impossible to succeed even there with
the right experience. Because guys, the truth here is, that every poker room that accepts credit cards is
vulnerable.
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How to improve your game
The goal of this final section is giving you even more knowledge about cash games. Here you can find starting ranges,
HUD advices for your Hold Em Manager and much more.
I’ve tried to put the most important stuff that can boost up your winning rate. This section is for every kind of poker
player, skilled or not, I’m sure anyone here will find more concepts to improve.
Basic poker glossary explanation:
If you don’t understand my poker language you should head to this kind of website: (click here). As I said you got to
know something about this game before reading this guide but anyway:
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6-max: a table with a max of 6 players seated.
9-max: a table with a max of 9 players seated.
Bankroll: is the money deposited in one poker room or an amount of money that it’s invested exclusively for
poker. A Professional Poker Player use his bankroll to play and earn, and withdraw usually a small % each
month to live.
bb / 100: Big Blind won every 100 hands. This is a way to measure our winnings. Is our average big blinds
won in 100 hands. Usually we can judge a player keeping in mind this:
o Negative bb/100: loosing player, aka Fish. This is usually 85% to 90% of the players in the poker
rooms. Yes, winning poker in legit ways, is extremely difficult, usually you got to be in the best 5% of
the poker website.
o 1 to 2 bb/100: poor player but not a general looser. The difference between this and a Fish may
seem low, but it’s not. This players usually play little to no hand (less than 8% of PFR) and getting
paid well by this guys it’s not that easy.
o 3 to 4 bb/100: good regular.
o 5 bb/100 or higher: very good regular.
o 10bb/100: extremely rare, we are talking about <1% in the poker room. It’s a poker master, and is not
counted that every poker website has one of this really good players.
BB / 100: Big Bets every 100 hands. This is a value used in other poker games, not the one we are talking
right now. Don’t confuse BB/100 with bb/100.
C-Bet: continuation bet. When a player raise in the pre-flop phase and bets again on the flop.
HH: hand history.
HU or Heads Up: a table where only 2 player are seated and they play against each other.
ITM: In The Money.
Multi-Account: aka Collusion happens when a single entity is in control of 2 or more poker players in the
room. This can help in cheating and winning more by playing with more cards against a group or a single
player. Of course if poker rooms knows that you are using this technique you get immediately banned and
your accounts will be freeze forever
PFR: Pre-Flop Raise. The % of the hands the player bets in pre-flop phase.
Showdown: the final phase, when every player shows is hand and the most powerful one takes the pot.
SB: Small Blind
SPR: Stack to Pot Ratio. Simply is the value of your stack vs the pot. Example: You got 10, the pot is 5, SPR
is equal to 2.
Tilt: it happens when because emotions a player start playing in a different way. Maybe you have won and
you are afraid of losing, or maybe you have lost in some bad beat and you are really angry.
TPTK: Top Pair Top Kicker.
TPGK: Top Pair Good Kicker.
VPIP: Voluntary $ Put In Pot. The % of the hands played by that person (bets, or calls, or raises).
Want more? Write me a pm and I will update this section with more!
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The Basics
If you want to simplify poker, you can tell for sure that it’s a game about mistakes.
“Poker is simple. As your opponents make mistakes you profit.” (Ryan Fee)
Unfortunately poker is not that simple and I prefer to explain to you what’s EV. EV stands for Expected Value. EV can
be positive or negative. It’s simple the result of your average winnings in a certain spot. That’s why in poker, mistakes
can’t really exist. You can imagine your EV like an infinite line. Every decision you make will simple have a certain
point in that line.
EV Formula is extremely simple. (winning % * winning $ amount) – (loosing % * loosing $ amount)
This formula can be used everywhere. Not only in poker. That’s why I can explain this better with an extreme simple
example.
You got a coin. A friend offer you some kind of bet: if heads come out you win 2$ dollars, if the result is tails you loose
1$. Considering that you will win 50% of times is pretty obvious that in the long term you will make money. But what is
your average winning every time that you flip a coin?
( 0.5 * 2 ) – ( 0.5 * 1 ) = 1 – 0.5 = +0.5$  This is what you win on average every time you flip a coin.
The EV is the reason why I think that mistakes are not really real in poker. Maybe at your table you got some huge
fish who is throwing crazy amounts of money by choosing negative EV actions because of his ignorance about the
game. Is this wrong? If he/she have fun by playing randomly I don’t think so. It’s wrong only in some ethical
prospective (wasting money) but we are not here for talking about ethics.
There is people that are doing drugs because they like it. Is it wrong? If they are having fun I don’t think it’s wrong.
Now it may sound completely nonsense but this mindset it’s extremely useful when you are very close to tilting.
Tilt is the enemy of people like us, that want to make money with this. If you don’t think at the game in a mathematical
perspective your emotions will come in place instead of brain and logic. And this is the real “bad” thing. Cause if you
are tilted you are not capable of taking +EV decisions only.
To reach this goal however I got to explain to you that not always poker is really fun for a professional player.
Downswings can happen pretty often in poker.
A downswing is a period of loosing hands (not time) even if you make the most +EV decision every time.
Take the example above. You win on average 0.5$. Do a little experiment: grab pen & paper, or notepad. Try to flip
that coin. Every time you win write +2, every time you loose write -1.
You will see that “-1” can even happen 8 or more times consecutively. Of course it can happen even with “+2”.
This thing here, it’s called Variance. Variance can be negative (downswings) or positive (upswings). You can see
poker as a person, and with Variance this person lie to you all the time about your real winnings. Too much upswings
will make you feel a god, and probably will make your game weaker if you are not careful. Too much downswings will
make you feel like a shit, and will always make you doubt about your decisions in game.
Why a fishy player continue to play poker? It’s exactly for this reason: some upswings deceived him to think his is a
winner. But hey guess what, he is not. And when that upswing ends he will blow up every dollar he have on that poker
room.
Now, is pretty easy to not going in tilt with that “-1” in a coin flip example. In poker actually can happen that even by
playing in a perfect way you will loose 20 stacks in a 2 hours session. Imagine you play NL20. You loose 400$ in 2
hours how you react? It’s not that easy to stay calm and continue playing… that’s why in poker and even in fraud a
bankroll is necessary. A good bankroll will make sure you don’t loose all your money because of some downswing.
A good bankroll is capable to absorb that period. The good news here, is that since you are in fraud poker, the
downswings will be probably more easier with you. You can reduce them just by carding money however remember
the rules and methods you have read here: stick with those strategy and try to not going on tilt.
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I suggest you, if you have time and you like it, to read Poker Mindset. You can even find this book for free in clear net
and even lots of abstract concepts on poker websites and forums. It’s not necessary to be able to make money from
this guide, however, it can help you to raise your winning rate.
Another necessary requirement is understanding odds and implied odds. Let’s say you got a flush draw, your
opponent bets 1$ in a 3$ pot. Do you think your call it’s +EV or not? The answer here is yes or no. And you can know
this only with math.
If you don’t know much about this I suggest you to go here: http://www.pokerology.com/lessons/drawing-odds/#article
(Javascript must be enabled!)
And here you can find a complete odds (with relative outs) table: http://www.texasholdempoker.com/odds_chart?chance_format=odds_against&decimals=2
Print this with this option: [Ratio (X to 1)], so you will not need to count odds every time you are facing this kind of
situation... you will just need to count your outs (extremely easy).
How I can improve my game?
First thing you can do: subscribe to some poker forum. 2+2 Is the most popular one and it’s great to start. You can use
the forum to share your doubts or to read lots of advices on improving your game.
Another great website to improve your game is deucescracked.com. It’s literally a poker training website. You can find
videos for every kind of poker game. Even for our favorite: NL 6-max cash/ring games.
The website is not free, anyway following this steps you should be able to not pay a single dollar:
Step 1: grab a credit card. It can be your or not. This website is totally cardable.
Step 2: subscribe for the free trial.
Step 3: download all the videos you want or need. If you are in doubt on what series to download just read the list
down here.
Step 4: be sure to cancel your payment before it occurs. And that’s done. You have not paid a single dollar and you
have top class videos to improve your game.
You can repeat this method as long as you want with every CC in the world.
I suggest you to download and watch the following videos, however you can download much more content. Also in
that website you have the possibility to ask questions about the videos in the comments section and the coaches will
answer you for sure.
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Every video made by Balugawhale it’s good.
From the Ground Up
Apex Predator
Running The Streets
If you aren’t already a winner in micro stakes then I suggest you to search for beginners videos on DeucesCracked
and especially in posting the hands where you have doubts on the forums. On the forums of legit played poker you will
find lots of people glad to help you.
Third thing you can do to improve your game is reviewing the most significant hands played in your previous session.
And if you have doubts post those hands on the forums or simply PM me.
If you want to read books about poker cash game you should check this 3: Easy Game by BalugaWhale (I and II),
and NLHE Cash Game Fixing Your Redline by Daniel Skolovy. I got this books if you want I can give you them for
free, just let me know.
Now that you have read about Basics, Mindset, and how to improve your game, it’s time to take a look at some more
practical theory.
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Pre-Flop Ranges: opening, calling, 3betting
We start with one simple question: what hands I must play? The following hands are a starting point to make your
game more tight an solid. I’m considering 6-max games only cause that’s our main game. You can print this and keep
this close to you when you are playing.
UTG: 77 | KQo | JTs+
IP: 22+ | JTs+ | AQo 3bet range: AKs | KK+
OOP:
SB: 22+ | JTs+ | AKo 3bet range: KK+
BB: 22+ | JTs+ | AQo 3bet range: AKo+ | QQ+
MP: 55+ | KQo+ | JTs+
IP: 22+ | JTs+ | AQo 3bet range: AKs | KK+
OOP (SB and BB):
22+ | JTs+ | AQo 3bet range: AKo+ | QQ+
CO: 22+ | ATo | KJo+ | JTs+ | A2s+ | K9s | Q9s |J9s | 89s
IP: 22+ | JTs+ | AJo 3bet range: AKo | JJ+
OOP:
SB: 22+ | JTs+ | AJo 3bet range: QQ+ | KQs+
BB: 22+ | T9s+ | ATo+ | KJ 3bet range: AKo+ | KQs+ | QQ+
BTN: 22+ | A2o+ | KTo+ | QT | J9 | Any Suited
OOP:
SB: Don’t call from SB vs BTN 3bet range: AJo+ | JTs+ | 22+
BB: 22+ | T9s+ | ATo+ | KJ 3bet range: AJo+ | KQ | TT+
SB: 22+ | A8o+ | JTo+ | JTs+ | A2s+ | K9s | Q9s | J7s | T8s | 97s | 86s | 76s
IP: 22+ | A2s+ | K2s+ | Q9s | ATo+ | KT | T9o+ 3bet range: AQo+ | TT+
How to read this range:
Green text stands for open raise (everybody before you folded), blue text stands for call if the player from that
position raises against you and everybody else folds and finally the red range stands for what range you
should 3bet if the player from that position raises against you. This is not your only range. This must be used
as starting point. Imagine for example if you are in SB and your opponent on BB keeps folding. Is obvious that you
can expand your range even more. And he starts to 3bet against you all the time is obvious that you must decrease
immediately your range.
The calling range here is valid only when the effective stack is at least 20 times the cost for you to call. Also
remember to be ready to go all in if you decide to 3bet an opponent with 50 or less big blinds (short stack).
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Pre-Flop Ranges: Isolation and Complete SB
This is another starting range vs random players. The mission of this ranges is to isolate (by raising) a weaker player
than you in order to make money by playing the hand heads up with him and make other people fold. If everyone
folds, that’s great. If only one player calls, that’s great. If two or more player calls, things start to get tricky.
You are IP. Isolation vs 2 players:
55+ | ATs+ | A5s-A2s | KJs+ | QJs+ | ATo+ | KJo+
You are IP. Isolation vs 1 player:
22+ | A9s+ | A5s-A2s | K9s+ | QTs+ | JTs+ |T9s | ATo+ | KJo+
Complete SB with:
55-22 | A9s-A2s | K5s-k2s | T9s | 98s
You are OOP. Isolation vs 2 players:
66+ | ATs+ | KQs | AJo+ | KQo
You are OOP. Isolation vs 1 player:
22+ | ATs+ | A5s-A2s | KJs+ | ATo+ | KQo+
The main concept here is to raise to isolate a certain player. What size we choose? You can use this criteria: you
multiply the Big Blind by 3 and add 1 more for every person who calls after the first player.
Example:
You have 77 from BTN. UTG Calls 1 blind, MP calls, CO calls. You raise 3 blinds + 1 + 1 = 5 blinds. In NL20 it’s a
raise of 1$.
Remember to decrease your range if you are vs 3 or more limpers:
You are IP. Isolation vs 3 players:
99+ | AJo | KQ+ | KJs
You are OOP. Isolation vs 3 players:
TT+ | AJs | AQo+
Pre-Flop Ranges: how to create your range
The next step after learning starting ranges is starting creating your own. The real challenge however will be how to
adjust correctly pre-flop ranges against different kind of tables and opponents. Here you can find a detailed
explanation about the strength of each kind of hand.
Keep always in mind that in theory, the more our opponents calls vs our pre-flop raises, the more we can expand our
range. But you must also remember that playing a wider range will increase the difficulty of playing postflop. If you
are a beginner keep a tight range. Don’t try to play a LAG (Loose AGgressive) game.
3bets: Never ever calling any 3bet or easily 4betting in a spot where you are not involved. If we still are not in game
usually we must continue only with this range: QQ+ | AK+
Always remember that especially fish players don’t like to 3bet. They like way more just calling against a raise.
So usually when a donk player 3bets, is pretty much always the top 3% of hands or worse. Especially in micro-stakes.
4bets: usually you do this only when you have hands like KK+ or AK, hoping that your enemy will put all his stack in
pot before the flop.
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The best size for a 4bet is something to scare the opponent enough to fold AND ALSO a bet that is not more than
30% of your stack.
AA - QQ
With this hands the more money ends in pot before the flop comes, the better! Make sure to go all in with another
player with this usually means that you succeed in the most +EV move possible. However this is not valid for QQ!
Be careful with QQ, cause it can be a real pain in the ass. Try to not go all in before pre-flop with QQ. With this hands
we want to have a small SPR value. If SPR is 2 or less than 2 all the decision in the postflop will be much easier
(basically you got to choose between fold or go all in).
JJ – TT
They are similar to AA – QQ and they play greatly in heads up. They are less efficient in a multiway pot. They are
even worst if you reach turn and/or river, cause our opponents have many occasions to improve their hands. Don’t
3bet with this kind of hands if you don’t have a specific plan for postflop: usually is more easier to just call another
raise. Fold this hands only if your opponent got a very tight 3bet range (4% or less).
99 – 88
Even with this hands is preferable have a low SPR value. If SPR is < 3 or < 2 you can easily go all in on a huge
number of flops.
Example: you have 9♦ 9♥ on J♥ 5♣ 3♦ with SPR equal or minor than 1.
Even if in that flop we have an overcard (J♥) it’s pretty much always +EV to just push all in.
We prefer a low SPR but eventually is not negative having a higher SPR value neither. Basically cause if SPR value
is high we still have set value (the chance to hit three of a kind on the flop).
Now let’s talk about 3bets with this hands. Don’t 3bet 99 – 88 unless you have high chance to play HU vs someone
with an high PFR %. For high PFR I mean something above 20% of hands. What about you are facing a 3bet with this
hands? You can fold when OOP and call IP only if your opponents 3bet range is above 6%.
77 – 66
Our hands starts to get weaker. Basically we play this hands often for set value, not much more. When facing a 3bet
you can always fold.
55 – 22
Just like 77 – 66 you can flat this hands during pre-flop only if your opponent stacks are at least 20 times bigger
than their pre-flop raise. This hands (55 – 22) basically have only set value.
Example: John bets 2 dollars. He got 28$. Do you call with 55? Nope. Because 2 * 20 = 40$.
Betty bets 3.5 dollars. She got 76$. Do you call with 22? Yes. Because 3.5 * 20 = 70$.
Remember: unless you are using this hands in a specific strategy we can tell that 66 has equal strength like 22 pretty
much always.
Of course if you are facing a 3bet with 55 – 22 fold immediately.
AQ off suited
Similar and much worse than AK. Even if they are almost the same that Q change the equity of this hand. If you have
top pair with AK you have for sure TPTK, you can’t say the same thing for AQo.
Anyway is not a weak hand and can be useful in lots of spots. AQ can be also good for 3betting if you have betting
lead. Cause usually someone with AK prefer to 4bet and not to call your 3bet, plus A and Q are blockers and can
reduce frequency of hands like AA, KK, QQ.
AQs | AJs | KQs and the other suited broadways (basically anything above JTs)
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Let’s start by saying that AQs is way more powerful than AQo. Be sure to remember this. They are excellent both in
HU (they can hit high pairs on boards) and also in multiway pots (they can hit very good draws). Usually if you
complete a draw with a suited broadway you have the best hand.
Offsuit Broadways
Without being suited this hands loose their value in multiway pots. So if you play them be sure to isolate one opponent
and play HU. They play better in pot with low SPR and vs short stacks (below 50 big blinds).
With ATo | KJo usually it’s better to avoid to call a pre-flop raise. QJo | JTo | KTo | QTo are pretty much trash, you
will play this only if you are raising first with them.
Suited connector and Gappers
Keep in mind that this kind of hand: J9s it’s better than 67s. Too many wannabe players believe in the opposite.
Hitting a pair is much more easy than hitting some kind of draw with suited connectors like 78s, 45s, etc… and usually
if you hit some kind of draw you got a weak draw that if completed can lead you to destructive consequences.
Imagine if you have flush with 65s and you opponent has flush with something better. Is not that impossible you know,
especially when you play against people who have smaller pre-flop ranges than you.
And of course if you miss the flop with hands like 65s, you are done. The only thing to do is fold.
Suited Aces
Much better than the previous ones, this hands can be good in HU and in multiway pots, and have the cooler
potential. If you are lucky and hit flush with your opponent you will probably win his stack.
Keep also in mind that the weaker suited aces are A7s and A6s. A5s – A2s have extra equity because they can lead
you to straight draw or combo draws.
Offsuit Aces and other trash
Any offsuit ace below A9 can be considered trash with the only exception in some Heads Up spots.
Hands like offsuited kings or queens are even worse and of course connector like 98 are just air.
Default 3-Bet Range and when to use it
I’ve already written this range in the chip-dumping section, however here’s a quick reminder:
22+ A2s+ K5s+ Q8s+ JTs+ A2o+ K8o+ QTo+
You can use this if that specific player often folds to 3bets. If you are using HEM be sure to 3bet all the players with at
least 65% fold to 3bet.
Postflop Tips
This section it’s a little list of general tips about postflop game. If you want, it can become something more
complicated. I think that since our focus in this guide is on Poker Fraud, it’s enough to keep this simple. However if
you want more, just let me know. Remember this section is made for beginners. Advanced players can probably
ignore this section.
C-Bet Basics (6-Max Game)
We can over-simplify c-bets spots in three cases:
1. You have Top Pair or better: always c-bet, no matter how many opponents are in game. Never slowplay if
you are a beginner.
2. You have middle-pair: c-bet only if you need protection, and do it only vs max two opponents. Protection is
needed when lots of turn cards can worsen your hand strength, otherwise just check.
3. You don’t even have a pair: c-bet only vs one opponent. Don’t bluff with two or more opponents. Anyway I
don’t mean to bet with nothing every time.
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You will not know much about that opponent if you don’t have any history about him. You can assume that
he’s gonna fold 50% of times: just think at the Fold To Flop C-Bet statistic and set it to 50%.
Now, add or subtract 20%: you add 20 when the flop is dry. You subtract 20% when the flop is wet. At least
70% is needed for you to c-bet. Since you will find lots of people who don’t like to fold vs c-bet, and you will
be often the aggressor in your pots, if you are not careful you will literally burn money.
Another important concept about C-Bets is the following: if you c-bet on the flop, you must c-bet on the turn!
Don’t c-bet on the flop just to check/fold the turn. Even advanced players make this mistake every day.
When to quit a specific table
It’s important to just leave the table on specific occasions. This is to avoid playing with average poker players, you will
prefer to play against bad poker player cause your life will be much easier.
First of all it’s important to know differences between deep and shallow stacks:
Deep Stacks: when effective stack is 150bb or more we are playing a deep stack game. I highly suggest you to not
play deep stack if you don’t know exactly what are you doing. If size of stacks changes, then your strategy should
change.
Shallow Stacks: when effective stack is 50bb or less. Same concept of deep stack. Avoid at all cost, probably playing
shallow stack strategy is even more difficult than a deep stack strategy.
Anyway I’m not saying that when you double up your stack you just leave. But be sure to look other stacks too.
If another player has a deep stack and he/she is skilled, immediately leave! You can do the same thing if there’s
two or more skilled players who likes SSS (Short Stack Strategy). They are a pain in the ass and if you don’t have a
specific strategy against them they will literally rape you.
Another good reason to leave the table is when you have only three opponents in game. This means that the blinds
will go faster and if this is happening you must change your strategy. Just leave and find a table where the total
number of players is 5 or 6.
Setup your HUD in Hold’Em Manager It’s really simple.
If it’s your first time with HEM be sure to check this page: http://faq.holdemmanager.com/questions/203/Stats++Tab+1
HUD configuration is something personal. This is my configuration, and I suggest you to follow this, however you are
free to modify it as you want.
Player Name / Hands
VPIP / PFR / Agg. Factor
Flop C-Bet / Fold To Flop C-bet / Fold To Turn C-bet
SB Steal / BTN Steal / CO Steal / BB Fold Vs Steal
3-Bet / Fold To 3-Bet
By hovering your mouse (or clicking, depends by your preferences), you will able to see even more statistics in a popup.
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together!
The goal of this section is to lead you on your first cashout and to summarize this guide. Even if you can achieve this
by totally ignoring this section I wanted to include this anyway cause this guide can be complicated to apply if it’s your
very first time.
Step 1: Get/Buy all the things you need to succeed and choose your target.
1. Analyze your target: like I said be sure to learn as much as you can on your target. You have to know what
cards can be used, check their FAQ to know their policies about deposit and withdraw, try to register a fake
account and see what they ask you on the payment phase, etc.
2. Credit Cards: buy this from the best source you know. On AlphaBay you can find tons of credit cards sellers.
Remember to choose your cards carefully. Choose credit cards that work in your selected target.
3. VPN: can be Virtual Private Access, Mullvlad, CyberGhost VPN, you can find tons of this on google, plus I
suggested you my favorite in one of the first sections of this guide.
4. SOCKS5: Since this is your very first time, use VIP72. Don’t loose time to find another SOCKS5 provider right
now. Go to Vip72.org, subscribe for 10 days (costs 10$).
5. Poker software? Be sure to have PokerStove (or Flopzilla) installed. If you can, be sure to have Hold’Em
manager too in your Windows VM. You can find it easily cracked in torrent websites. Hold’Em manager is
dependent by the poker room. It doesn’t work in every poker room in the world. Anyway this software it’s
optional. You can get used to work without using Hold’em manager.
6. Once you are on the website check your assets: VPN, SOCKS5, good CCs. Everything is set? Time to step
2.
Step 2: Create your cashout account. Since it’s your very first time, if you want to speed up things, you can use your
real identity. If you want to do things in the best ways possible avoid using your real identity and follow the steps
in Poker Accounts section of this guide. Remember the huge limit of using your real identity, and also consider that
you’re a new guy to this website, you have no poker history with them.
Step 3: verify and play a little with your Cashout Account. Be sure to:
1. Try their software: you must learn in detail how their software works, set your favorite options, etc. Be sure
to disable the players chat if you can, disable sounds, and set every option you can with 1 only goal in mind:
you want this software to be less distractive as possible.
2. After your account is verified you will receive a confirmation E-mail on your address. Now it’s time to deposit
and play a little. Even a deposit of 20$ it’s fine. Don’t card right now. And play carefully.
3. After playing a little try to cashout all your money or a little bit of them. You can even cashout all the money
and deposit again immediately. This is a test to see if your account is really able to withdraw money.
Step 4: time to card! Of course you will not card in the same machine where you are using your cashout account. If
you didn’t already, then create an additional windows VM in Virtual Box for your first carded account. Be sure to be
able to access the poker room.
When your second Windows VM it’s ready, be sure to follow the Carding section of this guide! Choose an import
between 150$ and 250$. If everything went correctly you should see your money added to your account pretty soon.
Don’t loose time and start playing. You have to test if they let you play. In some poker rooms it can happen that you
have the money on your account, but they don’t let you play until you send them some ID. This usually happens
because your fraud score was not that great.
Step 5: chip dumping. Now try to move the money exactly like you have read here in this guide. Play NL10, 6max
game. Only if you are really close to your goal (getting out all the money you have successfully carded) you can jump
up to NL20 to transfer the money more quickly. However remember to follow everything I told you or you will
probably fail.
Step 6: you will need 2 to 4 hours of playing together to complete the task. I suggest you to extend this time by
playing sometimes only with Cashout Account, and sometimes only with Carded. Even by adding this safety
measure you should be able to move the money in max 3 days. And finally you will have your cashout account with at
least 80% or 90% of your carded money. Some of that money will be lost, some of that money will pay the rake. It can
even happen that with your carded account you win even more money.
Step 7: when the balance of your Cashout Account is 200$, ask a withdraw. If it happens that you got 100$ of profit
and you are at the end of the day (I’m meaning that in next 12-16 hours you will not return) withdraw immediately
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that money. This is not the way you will always follow but this is your very first time. You account can get frozen
quickly even if you do one single mistake.
Important: if you get caught and your account gets frozen don’t run away immediately. Act like an honest citizen who
just want to understand what is wrong. If you get an answer where you made your mistake it can be an occasion to
improve for the next time!
However if you followed the advices I gave you, especially in the first sections (Carding, creating accounts, etc.), you
shouldn’t fear the poker room too much.
In this little summary I told you to withdraw all 200$ so you can recover your costs. You may have paid this guide less
than 200$ if I decided to lower the price I choose to keep this amount (200$/€) cause it was the original cost of this
guide.
Final Notes and Special Thanks
I have tried to include everything I know about poker fraud in this guide. This is some huge topic and I will always have
something to add.
The best thing I can do it’s to keep this guide always updated. I will put my best effort in this. The best thing you can
do it’s to stay in touch with me, keep improving your knowledge, and always tell me your doubts.
Also I want to thank everyone who has already bought this guide from me even before this version. Everything started
from a single topic on our old home, Evolution, and became much more. I met tons of people, some of them helped
me a lot, it would be great to thank them all, anyway I think it’s for the best if I keep everyone totally anonymous.
Thank you! And good luck with all your darknet projects : D
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