Test Bank 1 Survey of Historic Costume 6th Edition Test Bank Chapter1: Introduction Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Sumptuary laws are laws that regulate expenditures on luxury goods such as clothing or furnishings. a. true b. false 2. Of the various motivations for dress, which is the one generally acknowledged to be the primary motive? a. modesty b. protection c. decoration d. status 3. The earliest textile materials have been found by archeologists in a. the Middle East b. Africa Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 2 c. the Western Hemisphere d. Asia 4. The wearing of skirts by women and of pants-like garments by men is a custom followed by almost all cultures in almost all parts of the world. a. true b. false 5. Zeitgeist is a German word that means ___________________________________________________________. 6. Draped clothing is more often worn in cold climates than warm climates. a. true b. false 7. The use of African-inspired printed fabrics for fashionable clothes in the 1990s is an example of ___________________________________________________________. 8. Which of the following is an accurate statement about fashion? a. Fashion is a phenomenon present in all cultures and societies at all times. b. Fashion began in the late 19th century. c. Fashion appears to have originated in Western Europe during the Middle Ages. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 3 d. Fashion originated when fashion designers began forcing women to change their style of dress frequently. e. Fashion changes take place only in women's clothing. 9. Folk costume had its major development in the 18th and 19th centuries among Western European peasants. c. true d. false 10. Information about costume is more accurate and more plentiful after the 19th century because a. costume collections are likely to have actual garments from this period b. photography was invented in the 19th century c. fashion magazines began to be published in the 19th century d. a and c e. a, b, and c 11. This text defines a “theme” as ___________________________________________________________. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 4 Part I: The Ancient World, 3000 BCE–CE 300 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Which of the following civilizations were important centers of power during overlapping time periods? a. Sumerian, Egyptian, and Roman b. Babylonian, Etruscan, and Mycenean c. Babylonian, Egyptian, and Minoan d. Etruscan, Greek, and Sumerian e. Roman and Mycenean 2. Which garment is generally described as one that covers the torso and has an opening for the head and arms and is roughly T-shaped? ________________________________________________________ 3. The garments of the civilizations of the ancient world were, with a few notable exceptions, draped rather than tailored. a. true b. false 4. The closest modern equivalent to what archeologists call a “fibula” would be a. a veil b. a pair of trousers c. a shawl Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 5 d. a needle for sewing e. a safety pin 5. Skirts were worn by both men and women of the ancient world. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 6 Chapter 2: The Ancient Middle East, 3500–600 BCE Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The garment that is thought to have been made from sheepskin or woven cloth with tufts of fleece incorporated is ___________________. 2. Sources of information about Sumerian costume include engraved markers used to impress images on clay or wax and excavation of the tomb of a queen from Ur. a. true b. false 3. The smoothly fitting garments depicted on carvings of Babylonian rulers such as Gudea are thought to be a. an artistic convention and not a completely accurate representation of how these garments looked on real people b. realistic depictions of garments from the 2nd century BCE c. made of silk d. made of cotton e. b and c 4. Assyrian costume for men of the royal family generally consisted of a. a tunic b. layers of shawls c. sandals Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 7 d. jeweled earrings, bracelets, and armlets e. all of the above 5. In Mesopotamia, skirts and draped garments were replaced by more fitted tunics in the Babylonian period. a. true b. false 6. The costume of upper class Egyptians would be differentiated from that of lower class Egyptians by ___________________________________________________________. 7. Our knowledge about Egyptian costume is incomplete because ____________________________________________________________. . 8. The name some authors give to the skirt-like garment worn by Egyptian men and women is ___________________________________________________________. 9. Animal skins were worn by priests and kings as an upper body covering because a. animal hides were the only materials available b. they served as camouflage during hunting Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 8 c. they believed the powers of the animal would be magically transferred to the wearer d. they were expensive and therefore showed the status of the wearer 10. Costume elements that are thought to have first appeared during the New Kingdom included a. the sheath dress b. the long, flowing, pleated linen gown c. the tunic d. b and c e. a, b, and c 11. These new elements may have been a result of invasion from abroad a. true b. false 12. Woolen garments were worn by Egyptian priests when they served in their ceremonial roles in the temples. a. true b. false 13. Which textile fiber was most extensively used in ancient Egypt? ___________________________________________________________ 14. The differences in costume of the Egyptians and the Mesopotamians may Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 9 be due to a. use of different types of textile fibers b. differences in climate c. differences in standards of taste d. differences in attitudes toward modesty e. all of the above 15. Which of the following were not a part of Egyptian dress? a. boots b. sashes c. tunics d. aprons e. beaded dresses 16. Revivals of Egyptian styles in the 20th century were inspired by the discovery of the tomb of King Tutankhamon in 1922 and an exhibition of material from the tomb of King Tuthankhamon in the 1970s. a. true b. false 17. Which of the following statements about the Mesopotamian and Egyptian civilizations is correct? a. Both civilizations were located on what is today called the African continent. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 10 b. Both produced and used silk fabrics. c. Both had developed a form of writing. d. All of the above e. a and c 18. The evidence found to date indicates that Egyptian women were tattooed. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 11 Chapter 3: Crete and Greece, 2900–300 BCE Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The Minoans lived ____________________. 2. The conclusion that the Minoans went barefoot inside of their houses comes from a. bare feet shown in wall paintings b. bare feet on statues c. lack of wear on the floors of the interiors of houses d. absence of remains of shoes in archeological excavations. 3. Which of the following are aspects of Minoan costume that are not clear? a. to what extent earrings were worn b. how tightly fitted were men's belts c. how women's skirts were constructed d. whether fabric decoration was woven or embroidered e. all of the above 4. Minoans wore sheath gowns. a. true b. false 5. The costume of the Minoans and that of the Mycenaeans was similar. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 12 6. Pleated linen garments were popular among the Egyptians and Greeks. a. true b. false 7. Describe three characteristics of the Doric peplos. 1) ___________________________________________________________ 2) ___________________________________________________________ 3) ___________________________________________________________ 8. What is the name of the garment for men and women that was cut full and pinned with a number of small pins over the arms? a. Ionic chiton b. Doric peplos c. Doric chiton d. Hellenic chiton e. exomis 9. What is said to have been the origin of the Ionic chiton? a. revival of interest in early Greek styles b. Egyptian influences c. the attack of Athenian women against a Greek messenger bringing bad news d. the attack of Athenian women against their enemies Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 13 e. Minoan influences 10. When a Greek youth set off on a journey, he would most likely have worn _______________________________________________. 11. The name of the garment in which Greek philosophers were most likely to be depicted was _______________________________________________. 12. Under his garment that showed, a philosopher would most likely be wearing a. a chiton b. a petasos c. an exomis d. a diplax e. nothing 13. Infants in ancient Greece were wrapped in bands of fabric, a practice called a. breeching b. swaddling c. training d. straightening 14. The components of Greek military costume included a close-fitting, shaped body armor that, in modern terminology, is called: a. cuirass Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 14 b. greaves c. shield d. hauberk e. byrnie 15. Greek theatrical costume included tragic masks, and tall wigs for male actors and thick-soled, platform shoes for female actors. a. true b. false 16. The correct chronological order for periods in Greek history is: a. Hellenic Period, Mycenaean Period, Archaic Period, Classical Period b. Archaic Period, Classical Period, Hellenic Period, Mycenaean Period c. Mycenaean Period, Archaic Period, Classical Period, Hellenic Period 17. The Hercules knot, the stephane, and laurel wreaths were all part of Greek costume for _______________________________________________. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 15 Chapter 4: Etruria and Rome, 1800 BCE–CE 400 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The major sources of information about Etruscan costume include a. paintings on the walls of Etruscan tombs b. the text of books and manuscripts found in Etruscan tombs c. illustrated books and manuscripts found in Etruscan tombs d. actual garments found in Etruscan tombs e. all of the above 2. Etruscan costume shows many similarities to Egyptian costume a. true b. false 3. What are the characteristics of Etruscan costume that appear to be unique or distinctive? a. Much Etruscan costume is more fitted than costumes in other Mediterranean cultures of the same period. b. The Etruscans had some distinctive wraps and cloaks. c. Etruscan women wore a tutulus and a special badge of status. d. a and b e. a, b, and c 4. What garment was restricted in use to male Roman citizens? _______________________________________________ Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 16 5. Which of the following garments would be worn by a respectable married Roman woman? a. sagum b. synthesis c. toga d. bulla e. stola 6. Pallium, himation, chlamys, and paludamentum all fall under the general category of _______________________________________________. 7. If a Roman man said he was going to "put on the sagum" he meant that a. he was going out for dinner b. he was going to war c. he was going to run for office d. he was a senator who was going to a meeting of the Senate e. he was going to the public baths 8. A Roman woman who wore a saffron-colored palla, six pads of artificial hair, and a flammeum would have been a prostitute. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 17 9. The fall of the Roman Empire meant a rapid and radical change in clothing styles of those regions dominated by Rome. a. true b. false 10. Silk fabrics were a. known to the Etruscans b. known to the Romans c. exceptionally expensive d. b and c e. a, b, and c 11. The most elaborately cut, fitted, and patterned garments of any of those from classical antiquity were the clothes of a. Greece b. Etruria c. Rome d. Egypt e. Crete 12. Match the description in column 1 with the garment name in column 2. Column 1 Column 2 i. _____ a loin cloth A. toga pulla Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 18 ii. _____ a toga worn by the young sons B. vitta and daughters of the nobility iii. _____ a toga worn for mourning C. synthesis iv. _____ a heavy, semi-circular cloak D. toga with folded bands v. _____ a headdress worn by married E. subligar Women vi. _____ a table napkin brought by guests F. mappa when invited to dinner vii. _____ a special garment worn by men G. paenula when invited to dinner parties viii. _____ a band of color on the tunics of H. bulla senators and knights ix. _____ a type of toga worn in late Roman I. toga praetexta Empire x. _____ a locket worn by freeborn J. clavus children Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 19 Part II: The Middle Ages, 300–1500 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. In 330, Emperor Constantine moved the capital of the Roman Empire to Byzantium, renamed Constantinople, signaling the decline of Rome and the western portion of the empire. a. true b. false 2. In its history of more than a thousand years, the Byzantine Empire developed an artistic and intellectual atmosphere in which styles and ideas of both east and west were merged. A. true b. false 3. This person was the first European to cross the continent of Asia and leave a record of what he had seen and heard. _______________________________________________ 4. “A pattern of change in which certain social forms enjoy temporary acceptance and respectability only to be replaced by others” is the definition of _______________________________________________. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 20 Chapter 5: The Early Middle Ages, 300–1300 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Which of the following statements best describes the relationship between the Byzantine Empire and Europe during the period between 330 and the 10th century? a. European royal styles influenced the styles of the Byzantine Empire. b. Byzantine court styles influenced the styles of European courts. c. The styles of the Byzantine Empire and the styles of the European courts had no influences upon each other. 2. Cotton was the fabric most used by poor people during the Middle Ages. a. true b. false 3. The first European cultivation of silkworms and production of silk fiber was carried out by the ___________________. 4. The costume of the Byzantine Empire combined elements of costume from Asia with Roman dress. a. true b. false 5. The long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf worn by the Byzantine emperor was probably derived from the toga with the folded bands. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 21 a. true b. false 6. Only men of the Byzantine Empire were permitted to wear the paludamentum. a. true b. false 7. One of the most important elements of Byzantine costume was a. parasol b. handkerchief c. jewelry d. face veils for women 8. Which ruler became the dominant figure in Europe in the late 8th and early 9th centuries? _______________________________________________ 9. Which of the following were NOT part of clerical costume in the early Middle Ages? a. alb b. chausable c. cope d. stole e. hauberk 10. What influences on Medieval European life and costume resulted from the Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 22 crusades? _______________________________________________ 11. By the 13th century, which of the following textile fibers were available in Europe? a. cotton b. silk c. linen d. b and c e. a, b, and c 12. As all classes of society wore clothing cut in similar ways in the 10th and 11th centuries, class distinctions were evident in a. the length of the tunic b. the fabric of which the tunic was made c. the shape of the neckline d. a and b e. none of the above 13. How were married and older women distinguished from unmarried younger women in the Middle Ages? a. Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered. b. Married women wore their hair loose and uncovered. c. Married women wore both an over and an under tunic. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 23 d. Unmarried women could not wear fur-lined mantles. e. Unmarried women could only wear closed mantles. 14. The reason given for the development of long, pointed-toed shoes in the 12th century by a monk of the time was a. The shoes were a fashionable whim that showed that the wearer couldn't do any work. b. The shoe style was brought back from East Asia by crusaders. c. A local count wanted to hide his bunions. d. Women wanted to call attention to themselves. e. Shoemakers were trying to sell more shoes. 15. Long pointed shoes were called _______________________________________________. 16. Which of the following were not styles of the Middle Ages? a. parti-colored clothes b. hanging sleeves c. kalasiris d. magyar sleeves e. cowl necklines 17. Which of the following garments worn in the Byzantine Empire were also worn during the Roman Empire? Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 24 a. the dalmatic b. the tunic c. the lorum d. b and c e. a, b, and c 18. When the dress of the early Middle Ages is compared with the dress of ancient Greece and Rome, which of the following are the most pronounced changes in clothing? a. Clothing was loosely fitted throughout the Medieval period. b. Clothing was constructed by cutting and sewing. c. Men and women wore the same styles. d. Classical dress was almost always white while Medieval dress was made in colors. e. Silk fabric was widely available. 19. Match the classifications in Column 1 with the items of clothing in Column 2. Classifications may be used more than once. Column 1 Column 2 a. underwear i. ______ barbette b. an outer tunic ii. ______ pelicon c. an under tunic iii. ______ surcote Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 25 d. an outdoor garment iv. ______ garnache e. an element of headdress v. ______ chemise vi. ______ braies vii. ______ herigaut viii. ______ cote ix. ______ wimple x. ______ chaperon Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 26 Chapter 6: The Late Middle Ages, 1300–1500 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The use of sections of different colored fabrics in one garment was called ________________________________. 2. The 14th-century garment called the pourpoint was also called ____________________. 3. The pourpoint a. originated as military dress b. attached to hose with strings c. had a padded front d. was made either with or without sleeves e. all of the above 4. Various authors define the cote-hardie in different ways, however they all agree that it was worn only by the clergy. a. true b. false 5. A chaperon with a liripipe was a. A hood with a long narrow tube of fabric at the back that was attached to a short cape. b. A pair of hose with leather soles that was worn instead of shoes. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 27 c. A belt with long, hanging tassels at the front. d. A type of outdoor garment that reached to the floor and was lined in fur. e. The same thing as a tabard. 6. Describe a houppelande. __________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ 7. During the 14th century what had been called a “cote” in women's dress was called a “gown.” a. true b. false 8. During the 14th and 15th centuries styles for men and women began to change much more rapidly than had been the case in earlier centuries. a. true b. false 9. If an artist of the 15th century depicted a woman in a close-fitting gown, and over this a sideless surcote with a stiffened panel in front that was decorated with a row of brooches, a contemporary viewer would know at once that a. the woman was an imaginary person b. the woman was a French queen or princess c. the woman was from Italy Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 28 d. the woman was a widow e. the woman was on a pilgrimage 10. The 15th-century jacket was worn with __________________________. 11. Until they reached the age of four or five, boys of the 15th century were dressed the same way as girls. a. true b. false 12. The costume of students of the Middle Ages served as the basis for modern academic gowns. a. true b. false 13. The custom of buttoning men's coats from the left over the right probably originated from the construction of Medieval plate armor. a. true b. false 14. The custom of wearing black as a sign of mourning was not yet established in the Medieval period. a. true b. false 15. Match the classification in Column 1 with the item of clothing in Column 2. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 29 Classifications may be used more than once. Column 1 Column 2 a. undergarment i. _____ pattens b. man's headdress ii. _____ girdles c. woman's headdress iii. _____ hennin d. accessory iv. _____ bowl crop e. footwear v. _____ page boy vi._____ chemise vii._____ caul 16. Match the classification in Column 1 with the item of clothing in Column 2. Classifications may be used more than once. Column 1 Column 2 a. an outer garment worn by i. ____houppelande (men or women) b. a man's outer garment ii. ____ roc c. a woman's outer garment iii. ____codpiece d. a part of a garment iv. ____ bourrelet e. a way of decorating a garment v. ____jacket f. a type of headdress vi. ____ lappet Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 30 vii. ____ plast viii. ____dagging Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 31 Part III: The Renaissance, 1400–1600 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The period we call the Renaissance a. appears to have begun in Constantinople b. grew out of a renewed interest in the writings and art of classical antiquity c. began in Northern Europe then spread to the South d. a and b e. b and c 2. Among the developments of the Renaissance that continue in use in presentday life can be included a. the plays of William Shakespeare b. patterns and styles in textile fabrics c. the invention of gunpowder d. styles in furniture e. all of the above Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 32 Chapter 7: The Italian Renaissance, 1400–1600 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Evidence of influence of Italian trade with East Asia during the Renaissance is to be seen in a. the popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women in the 15th century b. the fashion for blonde hair during the Italian Renaissance c. the designs in some woven Italian textiles of the Renaissance d. a and b e. a and c 2. The depiction in Italian Renaissance paintings of costume is generally quite detailed and accurate, except for those of ordinary people. a. true b. false 3. Differences between the dress of Italians and inhabitants of Northern Europe during the first half of the 15th century would have included a. Shoes in Italy were not so long and pointed as in Northern Europe. b. Women in Italy covered their hair less completely. c. Men did not adopt the "bowl crop." d. All of the above Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 33 e. None of the above 4. The Italian word camicia refers to _______________________________________________. 5. In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible. a. true b. false 6. Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century? a. Clothing placed a great deal of emphasis on body curves, fitting closely through the torso and flaring out widely at the skirt hem. b. Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments. c. Garments were essentially draped, being based on the styles of classical antiquity, and relied on soft, flowing textiles very much like those of Greek and Roman women. d. Bodices had a deep, V-shaped neckline, filled in by a modesty piece, with wide revers on either side of the neck, a wide belt, and long, full, flowing Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 34 skirts. 7. A ferronière was _______________________________________________. 8. Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were a. a preference for bleached, blonde hair b. high, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking c. hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead d. all of the above e. none of the above 9. Chopines were ___________________________________________. 10. Italian styles for men in the 16th century were very much influenced by a. French styles b. English styles c. Spanish styles d. Burgundian styles e. Middle Eastern styles 11. The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume in the 16th century. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 35 Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 36 Chapter 8: The Northern Renaissance, 1500–1600 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because a. it gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus's voyage to the Americas b. it conquered large territories in France c. Spanish political ideas and art were superior to those of the rest of Europe d. Spain's leading role in starting the Protestant reformation gave it a leadership position throughout Europe 2. Italian influences in styles were brought to France by Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king as well as the French invasions of Italy. a. true b. false 3. Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another. a. true b. false 4. The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 37 a. Queen Elizabeth liked the style and wore it often. b. Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century. c. The French king passed the Edict of Nantes ,which required all French people to purchase only French goods. d. Spanish explorers brought lace back from the Americas. e. Machine-made lace became very cheap. 5. The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated _______________________________________________. 6. A major change in the fit of stockings came about a. when men's gowns grew longer and stockings were no longer visible. b. when trunk hose became fashionable and stockings were more prominent. c. when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I. d. when men switched from footed hose to duckbill shaped shoes. e. all of the above 7. Which of the following were NOT elements of men's costume during the 16th century in Northern Europe a. pecadils b. peascod belly c. farthingales Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 38 d. Venetians e. culots 8. Which of the following are undergarments today, but were a visible part of the outer garments in the 16th century. a. petticoats b. stays c. verdugales d. a pair of bodies e. farthingales 9. What is the name of the garment that was sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulders, with a high, standing collar behind the head? _____________________________________________ 10. Dresses with enormous skirts worn over a wheel- shaped device were called _______________________________________________. 11. The material used for stuffing trunk hose and doublets to achieve a fashionable silhouette in the 16th century was called, in England, _______________________________________________. 12. Match the definition in Column 1 with the term it defines in Column 2 by writing the letter of the correct term in the blank provided in front of the Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 39 definition. Column 2 Column 1 A. ropa i. _____ 1 Term used interchangeably with jacket . B. drawers C. jerkin ii. _____ 2 Term for doublet in England D. bases . iii. _____ Trunk hose also referred to as "slops" E. codpiece iv. _____ 3 Outermost gown for women that fits at the F. paltock shoulder . and falls loosely to the floor v. _____ 4 A skirted extension of men's jackets, either attached . or a separate garment G. galligaskins H. canions I. supportasse J. bum roll vi. _____ 5 Support for a ruff . vii. _____ 6 What were called braies in the Medieval periods? . viii. _____ 7 A pad worn around the waist to hold out wide skirts . ix. _____ 8 An extension from the end of the trunk hose Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 40 to .the knee x. _____ 9 In lightly fitted hose, a pouch of fabric to accommodate . the genitals Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 41 Part IV: Baroque and Rococo, 1600–1800 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The style in art that is characterized by lavish ornamentation, free and flowing lines, that is massive rather than delicate and which predominated during the end of the 16th century to the middle of the 18th century is known as _______________________________________________. 2. Toward the end of the style identified in question 1, a trend developed that was marked by smaller and more delicate design motifs and showed influences from Chinese and even Gothic styles. This trend is known as _______________________________________________. 3. The availability and interest in cotton fabrics that grew rapidly in Europe and America in the 17th and 18th centuries was a result of a. expanded trade with Japan b. the cultivation of cotton in America c. the expansion of trade with Egypt d. the expansion of trade with India e. all of the above 4. It was in the textile industry that the first effects of the Industrial Revolution Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 42 were felt. a. true b. false 5. Methods of communicating fashion information to consumers of the 18th century included engraved drawings of fashions and fashion dolls dressed in the latest styles. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 43 Chapter 9: The 17th Century, 1600–1700 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him. a. true b. false 2. The political preferences of the two factions in the English Civil War of the 1600s were reflected in their dress, the differences being: a. The followers of Oliver Cromwell dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Charles I wore simple, unadorned clothing in somber colors. b. The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple, unadorned clothing in somber colors. c. The followers of Charles I wore clothing similar to that worn at the court of Queen Elizabeth I Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 44 1. The Puritans who settled in Massachusetts in the 1600s wore restrained and simple styles, but did not wear clothing that was radically different in other respects from the clothing of other English people of their time. a. true b. false 4. In which of the following countries did members of the royal family continue to wear a farthingale-like garment well into the 17th century even though the style had been abandoned in the rest of Europe? a. Germany b. France c. Spain d. England e. Austria 5. The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called _______________________________________________. 6. During the 17th century, the trunkhose men wore over the lower part of the body were replaced by a garment called _______________________________________________. 7. In 1666 King Charles II of England adopted a new garment to replace current Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 45 styles and he wore it for the rest of his life. a. true b. false 8. What was the name of this garment style? _______________________________________________ 9. What was the name in France for the elaborate style of headdress known as a commode in England? a. love lock b. capotain c. roundhead d. fontange e. pantofle 10. Which of the following may have derived from Middle Eastern styles? a. the manteau b. the vest c. fontange d. a and b e. b and c 11. Which of the following were NOT devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance? Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 46 a. artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins b. lead combs to darken the eyebrows c. balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance d. patches to cover skin blemishes e. tweezers to pluck out hair around the forehead so as to have a fashionably high forehead 12. According to French historian Philippe Ariès, the customary dress of for small boys in the 17th century that was worn between the ages of three and six years originated in a. the dress of adult men during the Middle Ages b. the dress of adult women of the 17th century c. the dress of girl children of the same age d. the dress of men from East Asia e. none of the above--it was a unique design created for small boys 13. The garment worn by these boys (in question 12) consisted of a. swaddling clothes b. trunkhose, breeches, and a doublet c. a long robe d. a skirt, robe, and apron e. petticoat breeches and a doublet 14. The long, broad ribbon-like piece of fabric that hung down from back of the Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 47 shoulders of children's clothing in the 17th century were a badge of status that showed the child was a member of an upper class family a. true b. false 15. Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women “tailors” or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men. a. true b. false c. 16. Match the definition in Column 1 with the term it defines in Column 2 by writing the letter of the correct term in the blank provided in front of the definition. The same term can be used more than once. Column 1 Column 2 i. ___A veil worn to cover the hair in Spain A. guardinfante ii. ___Flat-soled overshoe with a toe cap that fits over other shoes to protect them in bad weather B. mantilla iii. ___A style of women's dress that was cut in one length Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 48 from the shoulder to the hem. C. falling band iv. ___The extension of bodice below the waistline D. lovelock v. ___Fashion in men's hairdressing E. galosh vi. ___Small balls of wax to give the face a fashionably rounded shape F. pantofle vii. ___Perfume placed in a decorated, perforated box shaped like an apple G. mantua viii. ___Spanish term for the French farthingale H. pomander ball ix. ___A backless shoe I. plumpers x. ___A flat collar J. basque Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 49 Chapter 10: The 18th Century Circle or write in the best answer. 1. The mistress of King Louis XV of France who was influential not only in politics but also especially in the fine and decorative arts was a. Marie Antoinette b. Madame Pompadour c. Catherine de Medici d. Anne Boleyn e. Madame Fontange 2. The style that developed in the last half of the 18th century and was influenced at least in part by the excavations of the Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum was called a. the Baroque style b. the Rococo style c. the Gothic style d. the Romanesque style e. the Neoclassic style 3. In England, “full dress” described the most formal evening dress. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 50 4. How might a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing? a. purchase used clothing b. join a "breeches club" c. save enough money over a period of several years d. a and c e. a, b, and c 5. Short gowns, smocks, and wigs were working class clothing during the 18th century. a. true b. false 6. Which of the following describes the styles in men's clothing that predominated in the first half of the 18th century? a. Breeches cut full through the seat, full-skirted outer coats, waistcoats that were almost as long as the outer coat b. Breeches cut full through the seat, full-skirted outer coats, waistcoats that ended at the waist. c. Breeches that fit closely, narrow coats that curved away to the side, waistcoats that extended almost to the knee d. Breeches that fit closely, narrow coats that curved away to the side, waistcoats that ended close to the waistline e. Trousers that had an ankle strap to hold them in place, outer coats ending Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 51 at the knee, silk brocade waistcoats 7. Mantua-style gowns for women, men’s dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume. 8. If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he meant that a. His uncle was a supporter of the monarchy. b. His uncle was old-fashioned. c. His uncle was rich. d. His uncle was rich and stingy. e. His uncle was "cool." 9. When the song “Yankee Doodle Dandy” used the term “macaroni” it was making reference to the practice of using feathers to trim hats in the American colonies. a. true b. false 10. The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s resulted from a. improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns b. increased demand for cotton fabrics c. increased planting and harvesting of cotton in Europe Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 52 d. removal of taxes on cotton imports e. increased trade with Japan f. 11. Match the definition in Column 1 with the term it defines in Column 2 by writing the letter of the correct term in the blank provided in front of the definition. The same term can be used more than once. Column 1 Column 2 i. ___English 1 men's riding coats A. beau . ii. ___All 2 parts of the garment were made of B. Anglomania matching . fabric iii. ___Hip-length, 3 loose-fitting garment for C. redingotes women . iv. ___What 4 would be called an overcoat D. Steinkirk today . v. ___A 5 style of wearing the cravat that was E. chapeau bra. named . after a battle vi. ___A 6 man who paid a great deal of F. eschelles attention . to his dress vii. ___A 7 woman's hat that could fold up flat G. pet-en-lair Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 53 . viii. ___Ribbons 8 used to decorate the fronts of H. ditto suit bodices . ix. ___A 9 man's hat that could be carried flat, I. greatcoat under . the arm 12. Match the item of clothing in Column 1 with the category in Column 2. Indicate the answer in the blank provided. Column 1 Column 2 i. ______ catogan A. underwear ii. ______ paniers B. headdress iii. ______ C. man's garment spatterdasher iv. ______ D. woman's garment polonaise v. ______ banyan E. footwear 13. Match the description in Column 1 with the name or statement that applies to it in Column 2. The same answer may be used more than once. Column 1 A. Full, loose dresses worn unbelted. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 54 B. Dresses that were fitted in the front, but had a loose fitting, pleated back C. Dresses that were fitted both front and back D. Dresses that were made of sheer, white muslin E. An overdress that was looped and puffed out Column 2 i. ______ chemise a la reine ii. ______ robe volante iii. ______ polonaise iv. ______ robe a l'Anglaise v. ______ robe a la Française vi. ______ style referred to the 19th century as having a "Watteau" back vii. ______ style popular at the beginning of the 18th century Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 55 Part V: The 19th Century Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Which of the following are examples of the process of cultural authentication? a. use by Native Americans in their costume of European beads and ribbons b. use by settlers of Native American buckskin fringe decoration on hunting jackets c. use by English women of French fashion designs d. Hawaiian holoku and mu’umu’u e. a, b, and d 2. The popular 19th-century shawl ornamented with what came to be called a paisley pattern was always made of cashmere fiber. a. true b. false 3. Trade between the West and Japan a. first began in the 16th century and continued without stopping thereafter b. first began in the 16th century, was discontinued, then re-opened in the 1850s c. first began in the 1850s d. first began after World War II Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 56 e. first began during the Roman Empire 4. Dress reform efforts of the 19th century included the introduction of the Bloomer costume, Aesthetic dress, and the reform of underclothing. a. true b. false 5. Men of the 19th century displayed their socioeconomic status through the quality of the cut and tailoring of their clothing rather than through the ornamentation of their clothing. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 57 Chapter 11 The Directoire and Empire Period, 1800–1820 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. For the meeting of the three Estates (classes) of French society that took place in 1789, the style of dress required for the clergy (the First Estate) was unique, but the style required for the Second and Third Estates was the same. a. true b. false 2. Which of the following costume items are associated with supporters of the French Revolution? a. bonnet rouge b. carmagnole c. trousers d. knee breeches e. a, b, and c 3. The women who wore the most extreme versions of Directoire Style clothing were known as reticules. a. true b. false 4. The differences in women's dresses in England and those in France around Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 58 1800 are thought to have come about because a. French women developed Anglomania. b. English women rejected French styles because they didn't like Napoleon. c. England and France were at war. d. The French had supported the United States during its revolution against England. e. None of the above. 5. In general, styles in the United States in the Empire Period paralleled those of Europe. a. true b. false 6. Scholars agree that the Empire Period styles were a sudden and abrupt departure from preceding styles that came about as a result of the French Revolution. a. true b. false 7. Before the Empire Period English and American women did not generally wear under drawers. a. true b. false 8. Round gowns are defined as Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 59 _________________________________________. 9. Dresses of the Empire Period were likely to a. be made of soft, lightweight fabrics b. be made in white or pastel colors c. have the waistline placement well above the anatomical waistline d. a and c e. a, b, and c 10. A spencer is a. the same as a pelisse b. a garment for both men and women c. a type of cape d. a and b e. b and c 11. One hairstyle for women during the Empire Period was based on the haircut given to women before they were taken to have their heads cut off during the French Revolution. a. true b. false 12. Once the French Revolution was over, many men went back to wearing knee breeches. a. true Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 60 b. false 13. The difference between trousers and pantaloons was generally that a. trousers fit the leg more closely b. pantaloons fit the leg more closely c. trousers were shorter than pantaloons d. only old men wore trousers e. a and d 14. Fashionable boot styles were often named after military units and military leaders. a. true b. false 15. By the Empire Period, boys under the age of five or six were no longer being dressed like little girls. a. true b. false 16. In order to get a sense of how people were supposed to look when fully dressed for daily activities, one must look at a. actual costumes in costume collections b. contemporary paintings and drawings c. written records of the time d. photographs Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 61 e. all of the above Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 62 Chapter 12: The Romantic Period, 1820–1850 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Among the influences that the Romantic Movement in the arts had on costume was a. revival of elements of earlier historic styles b. giving romantic names to colors c. imitation by some men of styles begun by the poet Lord Byron d. a and c e. a, b, and c 2. Which of the following statements accurately describes the origin of the sun bonnet? a. Sun bonnets were developed by pioneer women to keep the sun off their faces, then were copied in fashionable dress by other women. b. The fashionable bonnet was transformed by pioneer women into the sun bonnet. 3. Fashionable dress in the first part of the Romantic Period (up to 1838) included dresses with lengths reaching to the floor. a. true b. false 4. Which of the following were NOT characteristics of fashionable dress in the Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 63 second part of the Romantic Period (after 1838)? a. dress lengths reaching to the floor b. full, wide skirts c. berthas d. leg-of-mutton sleeves e. bonnets 5. Because most shoes of this period were flat, shoemakers returned to the practice of making shoes for right and left feet. a. true b. false 6. Galoshes and mackintoshes were popular in part because of the invention of processes for making items from rubber. a. true b. false 7. The style lines of clothing of young boys of the Romantic Period were more likely to resemble that of their mothers than their fathers. a. true b. false 8. The styles of suits worn by young boys in the Romantic period included a. Eton suits b. skeleton suits Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 64 c. tunic suits d. a and c e. a, b, and c 9. Among the records used by researchers to learn about the clothing of African slaves in the antebellum South are included a. plantation inventories and financial records b. advertisements for runaway slaves c. journals kept by former slaves d. a and b e. a, b, and c 10. Which of the following statements best describes the differences between the dress styles for women in the first and second parts of the Romantic Period (before and after 1838)? a. Differences were minor and very subtle, and cannot easily be identified. b. The styles of the early part of the period were subdued, with little fullness or buoyancy. c. By the second part of the period, the bounce was gone, replaced by a sensitive fragility. d. a and b e. a and c 11. Sources of information about costume of the period from 1820–1840 include Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 65 British and American women’s magazines and costumes in costume collections. a. true b. false 12. The strongest influences on styles in women’s dress of the Romantic Period generally originated from _____________________. 13. Match the classification in Column 1 with the item of clothing in Column 2. The same answer may be used more than once. Column 1 Column 2 A. outdoor garment i. ___ pelisse B. a type of sleeve ii. ___ capote C. a popular accessory iii. ___ newmarket D. man's coat style iv. ___ chesterfield E. headdress v. ___ gigot Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 66 Chapter 13: The Crinoline Period, 1850–1869 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Which of the following events that influenced the mass production of clothing took place in the period just before the American Civil War? a. invention of the sewing machine b. development of the sized paper pattern c. increased immigration of workers who entered the dress industry d. the tendency of more women to work outside the home e. a and b 2. A red shirt worn by women in the 1860s and named after an Italian general was called _____________________________. 3. The person who is considered to be the founder of the Paris haute couture was _____________________________. 4. Empress Eugenie was one of the most influential women for establishing women's clothing styles during the Crinoline Period. a. true b. false 5. What item of dress that is still in use today got its start during the Gold Rush of 1849 in California? a. Levi's Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 67 b. wristwatches c. sport jackets d. umbrellas e. trench coats 6. The factor that was probably most responsible for the widespread acceptance of the sewing machine was a. the merchandising methods of Butterick b. the low cost of the first machines c. the popularity of ready-to-wear clothing d. the need for uniforms for soldiers in the Civil War e. none of the above 7. Which of the following statements about the Bloomer costume is true? a. The introduction of the hoopskirt was one of the reasons that feminists abandoned the wearing and promotion of the Bloomer costume. b. Many of the early costumes for sports for women were modeled on the Bloomer costume. c. The ridicule that the Bloomer costume provoked contributed to its demise. d. a and b e. a, b, and c 8. A new style of woman's dress that was cut from the shoulder to the hem without a waistline seam and shaped to fit the body by seams and darts was called Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 68 the __________________________________________. 9. A popular jacket for children and adult women that was inspired by the uniform of Algerian soldiers was the ____________________________________. 10. Frock coats, tail coats, and sack jackets were among the types of suit coats or jackets that men might wear during the Crinoline Period. a. true b. false 11.Match the classification or phrase in Column 1 with the item in Column 2. Items may be used more than once or not at all. Column 1 Column 2 A. an outdoor garment i. ___ snood B. a type of headdress for women ii. __ canezou C. a type of headdress for men iii. __ burnous D. an accessory garment for iv. __ derby women's dresses E. a popular type of fabric v. ___ pardessus Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 69 Chapter 14: The Bustle Period and the Nineties, 1870–1900 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Women wore special costume for riding and bathing. a. true b. false 2. Which of the following technological developments contributed to the development of the ready-to-wear industry in the United States? a. the development of the sized paper pattern b. the increase in immigration c. the development of a machine that would cut many layers of fabric at the same time d. the more open class structure of American society e. all of the above 3. The direct influence of Impressionist art on costume of the period from 1860 to 1900 was extensive. a. true b. false 4. The Aesthetic Movement in art grew out of the Pre-Raphaelite Movement a. true b. false 5. The Aesthetic dress worn by the English playwright Oscar Wilde was the Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 70 inspiration for a. fashionable men's costume of the time b. women's aesthetic gowns c. the Little Lord Fauntleroy suit d. the popularity of knickers for golf e. Kate Greenaway costumes 6. Art Nouveau styles in the arts represented an attempt by artists to develop a new style with no roots in earlier artistic forms. a. true b. false 7. In costume, Art Nouveau style influences were most evident in children’s costumes and jewelry. a. true b. false 8. Arrange the following descriptions in the order in which these styles were worn. A. large, rigid, shelf-like bustles B. full bustle created by manipulation of drapery at the back of the dress C. a sheath-like fit through the hips, with extensive back fullness trailing below the hips a. A, B, C Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 71 b. B, C, A c. C, A, B d. C, B, A 9. Which of the following statements are true of women's costume during the first phase of the Bustle Period? a. Two-piece garments predominated. b. Most daytime dress sleeves were short. c. Necklines were more likely to be square than round. d. a and b e. a and c 10. Women's costume in the 1890s had a silhouette resembling ______________________. 11. The most popular sleeve style of the 1890s was the ________________. 12. “Shirtwaist” was a late 19th-century and early 20th-century term for a _________________. 13. A man would be most likely to wear a Norfolk jacket a. with trousers to work b. with knickers to play golf c. over his bathing suit at the beach d. to a formal party e. for a formal audience with Queen Victoria Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 72 14. By the 1890s a man would have worn a bow tie or a neck tie in preference to a stock or cravat. a. true b. false 15. Which of the following is NOT a type of man's hat? a. fedora b. bowler c. deerstalker d. ulster e. homburg 16. Although adult women wore hoopskirts and bustles, little girls were not required to wear these uncomfortable undergarments. a. true b. false 17. Which of these were among the factors that contributed to the increased emphasis on appropriate mourning costume in the 19th century? a. Widespread imitation of royal and upper-class behavior by the Middle Class. b. Availability of fashion magazines with articles about etiquette. c. Laws that regulated proper mourning dress. d. a and b Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 73 e. a and c 18. Silk weighting was a process that helped to make silk textiles stronger and more durable that was introduced in the 1870s. a. true b. false 19. By 1890 clothing could be obtained from which of the following sources? a. department stores b. mail-order catalogs c. tailors d. dressmakers e. all of the above Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 74 Part VI: From the 20th to the 21st Century Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Fashion designers often use current events, films, and art as inspiration. a. true b. false 2. Photographs first became available in the 20th century. a. true b. false 3. Motion pictures are an excellent source of information about what was being worn at the time they were made as they consistently reflect accurate contemporary styles. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 75 Chapter 15: The Edwardian Period and World War I, 1900–1920 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Which of the following developments in fashion are probably a result of World War I? a. the development of shorter and more convenient skirts for women b. the revival of Empire-line styles for women c. military influences in women's dress d. a and c e. a, b, and c 2. Which of the following items that were used by soldiers in World War I became a part of dress after the war? a. wristwatches b. umbrellas c. rayon fabric d. rubberized raincoats e. all of the above 3. The designer Paul Poiret was particularly known for a. the hobble skirt b. vivid colors and strong oriental overtones c. innovative marketing of his designs Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 76 d. a and b e. a, b, and c 4. The designer Fortuny's most famous design was called the __________________. 5. Asian influences on styles in the 1910s and 1920s were to be seen in virtually every category of women’s garments. a. true b. false 6. Which of the following items of dress were associated with "automobiling" in the first decade of the 20th century? a. dusters b. a green veil c. a cap with a visor d. spatterdashers e. a, b, and c 7. The silhouette of the Edwardian period is often described as __________________________. 8. Many women's dresses of the Edwardian Period used a. crisp, stiff taffeta fabrics in vivid colors b. heavy, dark, colors in keeping with wartime feelings c. soft fabrics decorated with tucking, pleating, and lace Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 77 d. brocades similar to those that had been used in the 18th century e. rayon fabrics which were just beginning to be manufactured 1. The purpose of tea gowns was to provide a less confining costume to wear with less corseting when "at home." a. true b. false 10. When the styles of the Edwardian Period changed around 1909, the changes included 1. straighter skirt lines 2. slightly higher waistlines 3. fewer high, boned collars 4. a and b 5. a, b, and c 11. Tailor-mades were called that because they were made by men's tailors rather than by dressmakers. a. true b. false 12. Which of the following would a man be most likely to wear to a formal evening event in the 1900–1920 period? a. a frock coat with matching vest and trousers b. a tuxedo with matching trousers and a dark or white waistcoat Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 78 c. a dark business suit d. a morning coat with matching trousers and contrasting vest 13. A man would be most likely to wear a trench coat during which of the following time periods? a. after 1918 b. before 1900 c. before 1914 d. during the Edwardian decade e. none of the above 14. The practice of dressing small boys the same way as small girls was a. still widespread from 1900 to 1920 b. continued until about 1910, then diminished c. discontinued after 1900 15. Which of the following items became less popular after the use of automobiles became more widespread? a. parasols b. umbrellas c. walking sticks d. a and c e. a, b, and c 16. Among the ready-to-wear garments available for women to purchase in the Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 79 1900–1920 period were a. tailor-mades b. maternity dresses c. shirtwaists d. a and c e. a, b, and c 17. Frilly white cotton or linen dresses decorated with lace, tucks, ruffles, and embroidery were known as __________________________________________. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 80 Chapter 16: Twenties, Thirties, and World War II, 1920–1947 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Among the fashion changes in women's clothing of the 1920s, the following could be considered radical changes never seen in any previous period of Western dress: a. Trousers for women. b. Tailored women's "suits" c. Knee-length skirts d. a and c e. a, b, and c 2. Bridal gowns, maternity dresses, and burial gowns were garments excluded from the L-85 regulations of clothing during World War II a. true b. false 3. Which of the following fabrics were readily available and used for clothing during World War II? a. silk b. rayon c. nylon d. a and c Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 81 e. a, b, and c 4. Which of the following individuals helped to set the styles in men's clothing in the 1920s and 1930s? a. the Prince of Wales b. Paul Poiret c. Wallis Simpson d. Adrian e. Dwight Eisenhower 5. Zippers were a. originally known as clasp lockers b. introduced into use for women's clothing by the designer Chanel c. introduced into use for men's trousers in the 1930s d. a and b e. a and c 6. The designer Elsa Schiaparelli was known for which of the following innovations? a. using Surrealist art motifs in her designs b. using zippers in women's clothing c. using the color "shocking pink" d. a and c e. a, b, and c Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 82 7. Why did American fashion designers attract more attention from the American fashion press during World War II? a. There were more talented designers who started to work during this period. b. With Paris cut off by the German occupation, the press had to turn to American designers for fashion news. c. The fashion press wanted to promote American design out of patriotism. d. No fashion designers were working in Paris. 8. Skirt lengths remained very short—at least 14–16 inches from the ground— from the beginning to the end of the 1920s. a. true b. false 9. In the 1920s a "bob" was _____________________________________. 10. Fashionable young women of the 1920s were referred to as _________________. 11. Fashionable young men of the 1920s were likely to have in their wardrobes a. Oxford bags b. polo coats c. raccoon coats d. a and b Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 83 e. a, b, and c 12. In the 1920s evening dresses had been floor-length and daytime dresses had been short. In the 1930s both evening and daytime dresses were short. a. true b. false 13. List four items of clothing or aspects of costume that seem to have gone out of use as a result of the widespread use of automobiles. _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ 14. Match the designer in Column 1 with the question listed in Column 2. Column 1 A. Gabrielle Chanel B. Claire McCardell C. Mainbocher D. Madeleine Vionnet E. Jeanne Lanvin Column 2 i. ______ Who was known for the use of wool jersey in the 1920s? ii. ______ Who designed the "robe de style?" Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 84 iii. ______ Who designed the wedding dress of the Duchess of Windsor? iv. ______ Who is considered by some to be the most original American designer? v. ______ Who specialized in bias-cut styles? 15. Match the name of the fashion designer in Column 1 with the dates of the time when he/she was might be considered to be especially in tune with his or her time by writing the letter of the time period in Column 2 in the space in front of the designer's name. Although the designer may have been working in several of these decades, choose only one. Column 1 Column 2 i. _____ Gabrielle Chanel A. 1910–1920 ii. _____ Paul Poiret B. 1920–1930 iii. _____ Madeleine Vionnet C. 1930–1940 iv. _____ Elsa Schiaparelli Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 85 Chapter 17: The New Look: Fashion Conformity Prevails, 1947–1960 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Young people involved in a rebellious literary movement of the late 1950s were called _______________________________. 2. Among the favorite styles of dress of the group identified in question 1 were a. zoot suits b. clothes inspired by Edwardian styles c. black leather jackets over white T-shirts d. white buckskin shoes and chino pants e. pony tails, beards, dirty sneakers, peasant blouses 3. As more Americans moved to the suburbs immediately after World War II, there was a trend towards increased use of casual sportswear a. true b. false 4. New fabrics introduced after World War II included a. nylon b. rayon c. acetate d. polyester e. none of the above Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 86 5. Among the major designers active in the period from 1947 to 1960 were a. Gabrielle Chanel b. Norman Norell c. Cristobal Balenciaga d. b and c e. a, b, and c 6. Although New York, London, Florence, and Rome became important centers of fashion in the postwar period, Paris retained its prominence as the most important center of fashion innovation. a. true b. false 7. The New Look did not include: a. long, full skirts b. long, narrow skirts c. large, square shoulder pads d. nipped-in waistlines e. rounded, curved hiplines 1. The fashion names given to some of the styles that were introduced in the late 1950s included a. trapeze b. maxi skirt Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 87 c. chemise d. a and b e. a and c 9. Styles for men that were especially popular in the 1950s included a. gray flannel suits b. bermuda shorts c. colored dress shirts d. a and c e. a, b, and c 10. Among the influences on styles in men's clothing of the period between 1947 and 1960 could be included a. dress of college students b. dress of English royalty c. European tailoring d. a and c e. a, b, and c 11. The U.S. Congress enacted the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act of 1960 to a. tell consumers the fiber content of fabrics b. aid consumers who were unable to identify fibers c. distinguish between those fibers that would burn and those that would not Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 88 d. a and b e. a, b, and c 12. The "New Look" collection was designed by ___________________________ and was presented to the public in the year _____________ . 13. Popular designs by couture and other high fashion designers that have been copied at lower prices are called _______________________ . 14. The young English men who adopted a style of dress with Edwardianstyle lines, wore pointed-toed shoes, and DA hairstyles were called _______________ . Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 89 Chapter 18: The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Members of the 1960s sub-culture that stressed "love" and freedom from the constraints of "straight" society were called __________________________. 2. The group identified in question 1 would be most likely to wear which of the following items of clothing? a. zoot suits b. go-go boots c. beaded head bands d. business suits e. black leather jackets 3. In the 1960s, men’s hair was worn longer, beards became fashionable, and many wore necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. a. true b. false 4. Esquire magazine called the change in men's styles ______________________. 5. In the 1960s and early 1970s only counter-culture young people and anti-war protesters wore blue jeans. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 90 6. Which of the following events had some influence on fashions at some point between 1960–1980? a. Nixon's trip to China b. the U.S. space program c. the Korean War d. a and b e. a, b, and c 7. The Civil Rights movement and the growing emphasis on Black pride influenced the wearing of ______________________________________. 8. The theory that clothing styles originate with the upper socioeconomic class and then are subsequently copied by lower socioeconomic classes is known as ____________________________________________. 9. The style that the fashion industry decided should replace the miniskirt about 1970 was called a. the chemise b. the midi c. the Dr. Zhivago skirt d. the micro-mini e. the maxi 10. The fashion industry was right, and by 1970 the style identified in question 9 had replaced the miniskirt. Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 91 a. true b. false 11. Women wearing pants in the 1960s were likely to be a. refused service in fashionable restaurants b. told they couldn't wear them to work c. college age or younger d. a and b e. a, b, and c 12. Among the changes in fashion design that were taking place in the period from 1960 to 1980 were: a. more designers were making lines of men's wear as well as women's wear b. many Paris couturiers were opening ready-to-wear boutiques c. a number of new couture houses opened d. a and b e. b and c 13. The most typical evening dresses of the period when miniskirts were popular were the same short length as daytime dresses. a. true b. false 14. The notable changes in clothing for active sports in the period between 1960 and 1980 included Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 92 a. abandonment of the requirement that tennis players wear white for tournament play b. wearing streamlined, stretch knit ski pants c. wider acceptance of bikini style bathing suits for both men and women d. a and b e. a, b, and c 15. Mod styles originated in 16. President Kennedy wore a homburg hat to his inauguration in 1961 and started a fashion for these hats for men. a. true b. false 17. Silhouette changes that entered fashion around 1960 included a. a more loosely fitted line b. shorter skirts c. A-line skirts d. a and b e. a, b, and c 18. Among the fashions that were associated with Jacqueline Kennedy as first lady were a. bouffant hairstyles b. wraparound sunglasses Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 93 c. pillbox hats d. a and b e. a, b, and c 19. What are some of the changes in women's clothing in the 1960s and 1970s that have been attributed to the influence of the feminist movement? a. radically shorter skirts b. more feminine-appearing clothing c. see-through blouses d. less confining underwear e. corn-row braids 20. Match the name of the art movement in Column 1 with its description in Column 2. Column 1 A. Art Nouveau B. Art Deco C. Surrealism D. Op Art E. Pop Art Column 2 i. ______ The artistic movement of the 1960s that featured glorified Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 94 representations of ordinary objects, such as soda pop cans and cartoons ii. ______ The artistic movement that was important during the period from 1890–1910 and which attempted to create an entirely new art without reference to or basis in the past iii. ______ The artistic movement of the 1960s that created visual illusions by the use of patterns iv. ______ The artistic movement of the 1930s which drew on images from the subconscious imagination v. ______ The artistic movement of the 1920s and 1930s that was characterized by geometric forms derived from artistic expressions of the past and of modern art 21. Match the definition in Column I with the term it defines, in Column 2 by writing the letter of the correct term in the blank provided. Column 1 Column 2 i. ____trousered suits for women A. prêt-à-porter ii. ____suits with jackets based on traditional Indian B. hot pants men's jackets iii. ____ready-to-wear C. pantsuit iv. ____men's suits with unstructured tops D. monokini v. ____topless bathing suit E. pantyhose Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 95 vi. ____knee-length shorts F. bermuda shorts vii. ____full-length, knitted stretch underwear for G. skimmer women viii. ____similar in structure to dancer's tights H. Nehru suit ix. ____A-line one-piece dress I. bodystockings x. ____very short shorts J. leisure suit Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 96 Chapter 19: The Eighties and the Nineties: Fragmentation of Fashion Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Which of the following events did NOT have any effect on the fashion world? a. the AIDS epidemic b. quick response manufacturing c. the singer Madonna d. the election of Ronald Reagan e. none of the above 2. The fashion among some young people for dyeing their hair pink, green, blue, or some other unnatural color, wearing clothing with tears, and making jewelry from safety pins and razor blades was part of punk styles and rock music influence. a. true b. false 3. Retro fashions could be defined as a. styles that have their inspiration in clothing styles of the past b. styles that are not currently fashionable but which are worn by some subcultural group as a statement of group identity c. styles that originate with street fashion and then become part of Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 97 mainstream fashion d. styles that are popular with followers of a particular rock group e. styles that are inspired by a movie which is set in an earlier historical period 4. Dreadlocks, popular during the 1980s and 1990s, do not exhibit the principle of fashion known as the “trickle down” theory. a. true b. false 5. In 1987 this fashion designer opened the first new haute couture house in Paris in many years. ________________________________________ 6. Interest in fitness increased, creating a demand for more clothing for active sports in the 1980s. a. true b. false 7. The Flammable Fabrics Act requires that certain textile items must meet specified flammability standards. Which of the following types of garments must meet these standards? a. loose-fitting sleepwear for children in sizes 6 months to 14 b. all clothing for children in sizes 0–14 c. all clothing for infants d. all clothing for senior citizens Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 98 e. all T-shirts 8. When ski clothing is compared to snowboarding clothing, snow boarders seem to prefer more tightly fitted, spandex suits. a. true b. false 9. A downturn in the Japanese economy in the 1990s caused the fashion world to lose interest in the work of Japanese designers. a. true b. false 10. Match the description of a development in costume from Column 1 with the event in Column 2 that was in some way related to this event. Write the letter of the correct response from Column 2 in the blank provided in front of the description in Column 1. The same response can be used more than once. Column 1 i. ______ increased sales of children's clothing and willingness to spend substantial sums for "kiddie couture" ii. ______ Afro hairstyles, cornrow braids, dashikis, caftans, and Africaninspired textiles iii. ______ popularity of warm sleepwear iv. ______ revival of interest in 1920s clothing styles Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 99 v. ______ popularity of the "power suit" vi. ______ the popularity of "fake fur" Column 2 A. the affluence of the 1980s B. increasing numbers of women in management positions in the corporate world C. revival of interest in Black consciousness D. the Civil Rights movements of the 1960s E. release of the film, The Great Gatsby F. the energy crisis G. animal rights activism Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 100 Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 101 Chapter 20: The New Millennium, 2000–2014 Circle or write in the best answer. 1. Manufacturers and retailers often touted this fiber as a “green” fiber. However, the Federal Trade Commission considered these companies in violation of the Textile Products Identification Act. ____________________________________ 2. Which of these is an increasingly useful way of transmitting fashion information. a. fashion blogs b. avatars c. social networking sites d. the Internet e. all of the above 3. Multichannel retailing is a. shopping on television b. the integration of physical stores, Web sites, and catalogs have become increasingly important to retailing establishments c. the exclusive use of the Internet d. involves only wealthy consumers 4. Which statement accurately describes the origins of major fashion trends in the new millennium? Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 102 a. Styles remain stagnant with minimal changes. b. Different styles have different publics; there are no precise rules about what is to be worn and no agreement about a fashion ideal that represents contemporary culture. c. There is no relationship between politics, the arts, and technological advances and fashion. d. Fashion is rarely influenced by the past. 5. The LZR Racer Suit was a a. new ski suit designed to increase speed b. a new bathing suit that contributed to the breaking of speed records at the Olympics c. on the Internet d. a special outfit for marathon racers e. a uniform for Olympic track events 6. Some notable trends in the period from 2000 to 2014 include a. body jewelry b. hoodies c. boho d. Crocs® e. all of the above 7. Denim jeans and other high-volume clothing items such as business suits, Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 103 baseball caps, T-shirts, and sneakers are deemed _________________ by fashion scholars. 8. By 2010, there were reports that although the casual dress look may have remained the preferred style for men, fashion trends dictated a return to the “dressed-up man” signifying success. a. true b. false Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 104 Survey of Historic Costume 6th Edition Answer Key for Test Bank Chapter 1 1. a 2. c 3. a 4. a 5. The spirit of the times 6. b 7. Cultural authentication 8. c 9. a 10. e 11. recurring or unifying subject or idea Part I 1. c Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 105 2. tunic 3. a 4. b 5. a Chapter 2 1. kaunakes 2. a 3. a 4. e 5. b 6. the quality of the fabrics used and the addition of costly jewelry 7. the climate has caused the destruction of most artifacts 8. schenti 9. c 10. d 11. a 12. b 13. linen 14. e Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 106 15. a 16. a 17. e 18. a Chapter 3 1. On the island of Crete 2. c 3. e 4. b 5. a 6. a 7. It was made of wool with patterned decorations; it appears to have fitted closely to the body; it was worn during the Archaic period. 8. a 9. c 10. a chlamys and petasos 11. himation 12. e 13. b Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 107 14. a 15. b 16. c 17. A bride Chapter 4 1. a 2. b 3. e 4. toga 5. e 6. mantles 7. b 8. b 9. b 10. d 11. e 12. i. E Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 108 ii. I iii. A iv. G v. B vi. F vii. C viii. J ix. D x. H Part II 1. a 2. a 3. Marco Polo 4. fashion Chapter 5 1. b 2. b 3. Byzantines 4. a Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 109 5. a 6. b 7. c 8. Charlemagne 9. e 10. Use of new fabrics, new foods, and new ideas 11. e 12. d 13. a 14. b 15. poulaines, krakowes, pulley-toes 16. e 17. c 18. e 19. i. e ii. d iii. b iv. d v. a vi. a Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 110 vii. d viii. c ix. e x. e Chapter 6 1. Mi-parti or parti-color 2. doublet or gipon 3. e 4. b 5. a 6. A garment worn by both men and women; often made with full, funnelshaped sleeves, worn in the 14th and 15th centuries 7. a 8. a 9. b 10. A skirt 11. a 12. a 13. a Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 111 14. b 15. i. e ii. d iii. c iv. b v. b vi. a vii. c 16. i. a ii. c iii. d iv. a v. b vi. d vii. d viii. e Part III Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 112 1. b 2. e Chapter 7 1. e 2. b 3. d 4. A man’s shirt or a woman’s blouse 5. a 6. b 7. A chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located at the center of the forehead. 8. d 9. High, platform-soled shoes 10. c 11. a Chapter 8 Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 113 1. a 2. a 3. a 4. b 5. With the Swiss army 6. c 7. c 8. a 9. conch 10. farthingale 11. bombast 12. Matching i. C ii. F iii. G iv. A v. D vi. I vii. B viii. J ix. H Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 114 x. E Part IV 1. Baroque style 2. Rococo style 3. d 4. a 5. a Chapter 9 1. a 2. b 3. a 4. c 5. Petticoat breeches 6. Breeches 7. b 8. vest 9. d Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 115 10. d 11. e 12. a 13. c 14. b 15. a i. B ii. E iii. G iv. J v. D vi. I vii. H viii. A ix. F x. C Chapter 10 1. b Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 116 2. e 3. a 4. e 5. b 6. a 7. Asian and Middle Eastern 8. b 9. b 10. a 11. i. C ii. H iii. G iv. I v. D vi. A vii. F viii. E ix. B 12. Matching Definitions Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 117 i. B ii. A iii. E iv. D v. C 13. i. D ii. A iii. E iv. C v. B vi. B vii. A Part V 1. e 2. b 3. b 4. a Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 118 5. a Chapter 11 1. b 2. e 3. b 4. c 5. a 6. b 7. a 8. Dresses that do not open at the front to show a petticoat 9. e 10. b 11. a 12. a 13. b 14. a 15. b 16. b Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 119 Chapter 12 1. e 2. b 3. b 4. d 5. a 6. b 7. a 8. e 9. e 10. c 11. a 12. Paris 13. i. A ii. E iii. D iv. A v. B Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 120 Chapter 13 1. a 2. the Garibaldi shirt 3. Charles Worth 4. a 5. a 6. d 7. e 8. Princess dress 9. zouave 10. a 11. Matching Classification and Item of Clothing i. B ii. D iii. A iv. C v. A Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 121 Chapter 14 1. a 2. e 3. b 4. a 5. c 6. a 7. d 8. b 9. e 10. An hourglass 11. Leg-of-mutton sleeve 12. Woman’s blouse 13. b 14. a 15. d 16. b 17. d 18. b 19. e Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 122 Part VI 1. a 2. b 3. b Chapter 15 1. d 2. a 3. e 4. Delphos Gown 5. a 6. e 7. S-shaped 8. c 9. a 10. e 11. a 12. b 13. a Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 123 14. b 15. d 16. e 17. Lingerie dresses Chapter 16 1. d 2. a 3. b 4. a 5. e 6. e 7. b 8. b 9. A haircut 10. flappers 11. e 12. B 13. large hats for women, walking sticks for men, parasols, long skirts for women, canes, pocket watches Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 124 14. i. A ii. E iii. C iv. B v. D 15. i. B ii. A iii. C iv. C Chapter 17 1. beatniks 2. e 3. a 4. d 5. b 6. a Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 125 7. c 8. e 9. d 10. b 11. d 12. Christian Dior / 1947 13. knock-offs 14. Teddy boys Chapter 18 1. hippies 2. c 3. a 4. The peacock revolution 5. b 6. d 7. Afros, dashikis, and fabrics influenced by Africa such as kente cloth 8. Trickle-down theory 9. b 10. b Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 126 11. d 12. d 13. a 14. e 15. England 16. b 17. e 18. e 19. d 20. i. E ii. A iii. D iv. C v. B 21. i. C ii. H iii. A iv. J v. D Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 127 vi. F vii. I viii. E ix. G x. B Chapter 19 1. e 2. a 3. a 4. a 5. Christian Lacroix 6. A 7. a 8. b 9. b 10. i. A ii. C iii. F Survey of Historic Costume Test Bank 128 iv. E v. B vi. G Chapter 20 1. bamboo 2. e 3. b 4. b 5. b 6. e 7. world dress 8. a Survey of Historic Costume